Biscuits and Gravy

It’s an all-American side dish. Mary’s Lamb, 10820 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (818) 505-6120. Style: Modernized Americana. Setting: Country-cottage quaint with pine, stenciling, cow creamers and quilts. Price: Biscuits and gravy, $4.50. Millie’s, 3524 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 661-5292. Style: Offbeat diner where waitress is queen. Setting: Greasy-spoon squalor. Price: Biscuits and gravy, $1.50. Ocean Diner, 959 Aviation Blvd., Hermosa Beach. (213) 372-3739. Style: Fanny Farmerish. Setting: Retro. Price: Biscuits and gravy, $2.25. The Pines, 4343 Pearblossom Highway, Palmdale. (805) 947-7455. Style: A dream of a diner. Setting: Rustic rural, with picnic tables, paneling and rodeo posters. Price: Biscuits and gravy, $2.25. Penguin Restaurant, 1670 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica. (213) 399-9900. Style: Genuine ‘50s diner redefined to suit the ‘90s. Setting: Neo diner. Price: Biscuits and gravy, $1.34.