How to Visit the Pantanal

Getting there: Varig Brazilian Airlines flies from Los Angeles to Rio de Janeiro four times weekly, and from Rio to Cuiaba twice daily, telephone (800) 468-2744. Round trip to Cuiaba costs about $1,675.

When to go: Best time to visit the Pantanal is during the dry season, May to mid-November, when few tourists can be found and millions of migrant birds return to nest.

Tours: For my trip, I used F&H; Travel Consulting, 4545 Baseline Ave., Santa Ynez, Calif. 93460, (800) 544-5503. Run by two Brazilians, F&H; handled all of my travel arrangements, and I paid hundreds of dollars less than if I had attempted to do it myself. The cost is about $2,000 for five nights in the Pantanal, including round-trip air fare, lodging, guide, ground transportation and breakfasts.

Where to stay: Cabanas do Pantanal, MTConfiance Turismo Ltda., Rua Candido Mariano 434, Cuiaba, Brazil, 011-55-65-321-4142 or 322-1353. Approximately $55 per person per night. Price includes land rides, fishing and a boat ride to and from the hotel.

Hotel Pixaim, Porto Jofre, Brazil, 011-55-65-322-8961. Approximately $35 per night for two. Breakfast included.

For more information: Contact the Department of Tourism, Brazilian Consulate, 3810 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 1500, Los Angeles 90010, (213) 382-3133.