Stock Tips

Besides the rice, the key ingredient to perfect risotto is the stock. Risotto is one of those dishes that can be abused, the self-deluding cook (or corrupted chef) pretending that he or she is making risotto simply by virtue of using the risotto technique. It is vulnerable to corner-cutting, and the availability of bouillon cubes and canned stock makes this tempting. The result, it must be said, is acceptable, especially for risotti where a strong ingredient such as wine or a squash puree can mask the one-dimensional flavor of the bouillon cube or canned broth. In a pinch, use them. (Canned no-salt broth is the better choice.)

But if you want a great risotto, make your own stock.

Fresh rosemary adds a noticeable dimension to chicken stock. Add several sprigs to a 20-quart stockpot.

Don’t add salt to the stock; add it instead to the risotto while cooking. This gives you more precise control.

Stock should always be cooked longer than usually is recommended. Stock simmered for only 3 hours is not as rich and flavorful as that simmered for 10 to 12 hours. This is especially true if you are using a generous quantity of chicken.

The easiest way to slow cook stock is to let it simmer in the oven. A 20-quart stockpot fits perfectly on the lowest rack in my oven, which is a standard size. I bring the stock to a boil on the stove in the evening, then transfer it, covered, to a 275-degree oven. The next morning, the house is perfumed with the scent of stock.

The stock is allowed to cool--with the meat--on a heatproof surface. After cooling, it gets drained, strained and transferred to half-gallon plastic freezer containers. The fat rises to the top. Leave it there. Remove the fat when you use the stock.