1996 Verget Bourgogne Blanc, Burgundy (About $18)

This wine far outclasses its modest Bourgogne Blanc appellation--it’s actually a blend of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet with some St. Aubin mixed in. But it needs some time in the glass (or, even better, the bottle); right now, it’s tightly wound, and very crisp. It needs food to begin to show its fine silky texture and beguiling layers of earth and mineral flavors. Think oysters, mussels, clams and seafood soups and stews.