A rich twist on a family favorite

Dear SOS: We frequently enjoy the food at Joan’s on Third. My 7-year-old son especially loves the macaroni and cheese, as do I. Could you convince them to share the recipe?

Ruth Peebles

Los Angeles

Dear Ruth: This playfully traditional and exceptionally good version of the old-time favorite uses four types of cheese, each with its unique texture and flavor.

Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

Servings: 12 main course servings

1 pound pasta (elbow macaroni, fusilli or any shape desired)

4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) butter, cut up

3 3/4 cups whole milk

3/4 cup ricotta or small-curd cottage cheese

3 ounces cream cheese

3 cups shredded Jack cheese5 cups shredded Gouda, divided

Salt, pepper

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until just tender. Drain well.

2. Return the pasta to the pot and add the butter, milk, ricotta, cream cheese, Jack cheese and 3 cups of the Gouda. Season with salt and pepper to taste and mix gently, leaving some chunks of cheese visible.

3. Spoon into a 9-by- 13-inch glass baking dish. Top with the remaining 2 cups Gouda. Bake 45 to 50 minutes, until golden. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Each serving: 525 calories; 27 grams protein; 31 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 32 grams fat; 20 grams saturated fat; 110 mg. cholesterol; 603 mg. sodium.