2004 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre

What could be better than a dozen oysters washed down with a glass of cool, minerally Sancerre? The 2004 from Hippolyte Reverdy, always one of the best producers in Sancerre, is absolute textbook Sauvignon Blanc. It has a touch of smokiness, lemongrass and citrus, and the acidity just sings. Immensely versatile with food, this is a wine so delicious it’s hard to put down your glass. One of the best Sancerres I’ve had in years.

Uncork a bottle for those oysters, or a bowl of steamed mussels or clams. It’s terrific with seared scallops or sauteed squid too, and could even stand up to a roast chicken.

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Quick swirl

Region: Loire Valley

Price: About $22

Style: Crisp and aromatic

Food it goes with: Oysters, steamed mussels, seared scallops, sauteed squid and other seafood

Where you find it: Fine wine retailers

-- S. Irene Virbila