2005 Domaine Hubert Chavy Chardonnay ‘Les Femelottes’ Vieille Vigne

White Burgundy isn’t just high-priced, sublime Meurseult or Montrachet. It’s also this eminently drinkable, lean and sinewy Bourgogne Blanc “Les Femelottes” from Chavy. The grapes come from old vines, and as a result this Chardonnay has an intensity and crisp mineral quality that makes for perfect summer drinking.

I had it recently with steamed purple-tipped artichokes dipped in a little green-gold olive oil with fleur de sel and a squirt of lemon. It’s also the best kind of wine with seafood, such as steamed mussels or grilled Santa Barbara spot prawns.

Did I mention that it’s less than $20, so quite the value as well?

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Quick swirl

Region: Burgundy

Price: About $19

Style: Lean and sinewy

Food it goes with: Artichokes, crudites, steamed mussels, chilled seafood platter, Santa Barbara spot prawns

Where you find it: East Beach Wine Co. in Santa Barbara, (800) 656-WINE; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463

-- S. Irene Virbila