2004 Giuseppe Mascarello Barbera d’Alba Santo Stefano di Perno

Fall is coming on, finally, so it’s time to move on from the roses and lightweights to something lush and autumnal. In my book, that would include a Barbera, preferably this impressive one from one of Barolo’s oldest and most distinguished estates, Giuseppe Mascarello. Just look at the color in the glass -- a juicy red-violet -- and take in the scent of blackberries and dusky foliage. The bright snap of acidity makes this 2004 Barbera a natural with salumi, panini, grilled sausages and such classic fall dishes as pasta e fagioli, tagliarini with meat sauce, or a roast bird.

--S. Irene Virbila

Quick swirl

Region: Piedmont

Price: About $21

Style: Bright and lush

Food it goes with: Salumi and charcuterie, grilled sausages, pasta with meat sauce

Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463, www.missionwines.com; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX, www.winex.com.