First-Timer’s Buenos Aires Travel Guide: Explore Like a Local

The huge – and somewhat mysterious – South American metropolis opens up in front of you with every step

Truth be told, I expected to be underwhelmed by Buenos Aires.

The first time I set foot in the South American metropolis was at the tail-end of a book project on driving the Pan-American Highway from Texas to Argentina. I was pretty worn out by that point, needed some rest and recuperation rather than a frenetic urban experience, and checked into a downtown hotel figuring I would hibernate for a couple of days and hit the road for Patagonia.

But something remarkable happened that first afternoon. Hunger overcoming the need for sleep, I went in search of a light meal that would tide me over till dinner time. That’s when I discovered Calle Florida – the busy pedestrian street that runs through the heart of the city and my first inclination that Buenos Aires is more about the vibe rather than iconic sights or social media snapshots.

Why This Buenos Aires Travel Guide Is a Lifesaver for First Timers

This in-depth guide is put together to help first timers avoid getting totally lost in the massive capital of Buenos Aires, Argentina, the city that somehow manages to cram grand European-inspired architecture alongside a fiery Latin American soul all in one place. Planning a trip to Buenos Aires can feel like a daunting task, its big, its busy, and its a whole lot to take in. But if you want to visit when the weather is just about perfect, try aiming for the shoulder season.

Of course, the spring season (mid-September to mid-December) is often touted as the best time to visit, when the city center bursts into life with blooming purple jacaranda trees everywhere you look. And the autumn season (March to May) is great too, the crisp air makes it perfect to get out and explore on foot.

On the other hand, you might want to give the peak summer months (December to February) a miss, unless you’re someone who loves wallowing in humidity, don’t forget that average summer temperatures range from 24 to 36 degrees Celsius and crowd waves of tourists into the city.

Winter runs from June to September, and can get pretty chilly, so be sure to bring a light jacket when you’re wandering the streets. Whatever time of year you arrive, this guide will have you clued up on what to expect.

Interior of Guemes Gallery at Buenos Aires in Argentina, Vintage and historic venue, gallery decorated with beautiful details, pedestrian crossing in the city center.

(rudiernst - stock.adobe.com)

Without knowing, I had arrived in the middle of the annual Tango Festival, the globe’s largest and most flamboyant showcase of the legendary Argentine dance and music form. Mixed in with the regular buskers on Calle Florida were impromptu tango performers, a swirl of black-and-red to songs played on the violins, guitars and accordions by musicians complementing the dancers.

After that, I found myself walking for hours, wandering “BA” with no particular plan in mind but continually finding intriguing things along the way.

Like the Mirador Galería Güemes, an Art Nouveau masterpiece with sundry shops and eating spots beneath soaring arches and extraordinary glass domes. Built in 1913 and comprising 14 stories, it’s considered the city’s first skyscraper. Crowning the roof is a spiral staircase leading to an observation deck (the mirador) that has delivered the best view of Buenos Aires for more than a century.

At the bottom end of Calle Florida is the Casa Rosada (“Pink House”). Argentina’s salmon-colored presidential palace was originally built in the 1870s as the city’s main post office. But the architecture was so elegantly over the top that it was soon hijacked by el presidente. Eva Perón is forever associated with the building because of a 1951 speech she delivered to thousands of her adoring followers in the Plaza de Mayo that fronts the building. It’s also the same plaza where thousands would later gather in protests that helped topple the nation’s dreaded military junta in the 1980s.

Historical Landmarks Around de la Plaza de Mayo

You can’t ignore the key historical landmarks that cluster around this public square, the Pirámide de Mayo and the salmon colored presidential palace, to name a few. This historic square has been at the heart of Buenos Aires politics since 1810. Take a good look around and you can almost feel the weight of history beneath your feet.

Just a short walk down the grand avenue and you’ll stumble upon the towering Obelisco, built way back in 1936 to commemorate the city’s founding. Walking around this particular neighborhood feels like a live lesson in neoclassical architecture, and that’s part of the reason why people call Buenos Aires the “Paris of South America”.

Skyline of Puerto Madero Buenos Aires

(Michele - stock.adobe.com)

Dancing in the Daylight

Heading down Avenida de Mayo from the plaza, appetite eventually surpassed my wanderlust and I stumbled into Café Tortoni. Full disclosure, I was kind of looking for it, as one of the places I’d heard about long before arriving in the Argentine capital. Opened in 1858 by a French immigrant, it’s the city’s oldest eatery and a bona fide national historic monument.

Below gorgeous glass ceilings, the walls are covered in portraits of celebrated Argentine writers, artists and sporting heroes who frequented the café in days gone by. Tortoni was also on the BA bucket list of foreign visitors like Albert Einstein, King Juan Carlos of Spain and First Lady Hillary Clinton.

My timing couldn’t have been more perfect, because I got seated in the main salon just as a tango performance was kicking off, the dancers twirling between the tables as I sipped a glass of tinto vino from Mendoza with an Académico Tortoni sandwich (one of the house specials). Soon the professional dancers were joined by diners caught up in the mood, a phenomenon I would encounter throughout the city over the next few days.

Watching the pros at a milonga might leave you feeling inspired to give tango a go for yourself, sign up for a local lesson and get in on the ground floor. Catching a professional tango show is a highlight for many visitors, but being part of a crowded dance floor late into the night is a totally different experience. The street performers and live music that seem to be on every corner just adds to the energy, it’s easy to get swept up in the rhythm.

Ghosts of Porteños Past

Residents of Buenos Aires call themselves porteños, a term of endearment that means “people of the port” because so many immigrants arrived by ship from Spain, Italy and other European nations. It was a human wave not unlike what the United States was experiencing at the same time; in the 20-year period following 1895 the city’s population tripled to 1.5 million. By World War II, three million people called the city home, and echoes of that heritage still linger in port cities from Buenos Aires to Bari on Italy’s Adriatic coast.

Most of them stepped ashore at Puerto Madero, a waterfront area that once bustled with hundreds of sailing ships and steamers disgorging cargo and passengers. By the late 20th century, most new migrants were arriving by air and cargo had shifted to container ports. Like extinct port areas around the globe, Puerto Madero fell into disuse and despair – that is, until the turn of this century when the old docklands was completely transformed by the largest and most expensive urban renewal project in Argentine history.

If Santiago, Chile has its “Sanhattan” high-rise district, then the resurrected Puerto Modero could easily be dubbed “BAnhattan” given the forest of skyscrapers that rises above the old port (many designed by world-famous architects). Here and there the past endures, like the restored redbrick grain warehouse that now holds the chic Faena Hotel and the ARA Presidente Sarmiento, an immense three-masted frigate launched in 1897 that is now a floating museum.

Casa Rosada (Pink House) Presidential Palace of Argentina. Mayo Square, Buenos Aires.

(atosan - stock.adobe.com)

Making my way through the maze of skyscrapers I eventually reached the Costanera Sur. Or, at least the place where this famed waterfront promenade used to be: Once upon a time, thousands of porteños flocked here on summer evenings to catch the breeze blowing up the Rio de la Plata from the South Atlantic and maybe even take a dip.

By the time of my arrival, the fancy wrought-iron streetlights and steps leading down to the water had been replaced by a modern version, and the promenade now offered lawns where kids were playing soccer and open-air parilla restaurants that specialize in incredibly delicious grilled meats.

It might be called a “waterfront,” But there’s no longer water, per se. The land been pushed almost a mile out into the Rio de la Plata via reclamation to create the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, a huge urban green space with wetlands and native vegetation that attracts both migratory birds and city dwellers in search of a nature escape.

Situated right on the city’s outskirts, this massive ecological reserve is the largest green space in Buenos Aires, providing just the ticket for some tranquil walking paths away from all the city noise. If you’re looking for a more manicured and peaceful spot to explore, closer to the northern neighborhoods, then head to the fabulous Paseo del Rosedal in Palermo, where thousands of roses bloom and there are peaceful lakes to boot.

Reaching the beach on the outer edge of the eco reserve, I was surprised to find that the legendary “River of Silver” is actually brown, caused by all the silt that washes down the Rio Parana from rainforests in the middle of South America. No swimming for me today, but I had to stick my feet into the famous waterway just to say I’d done it.

The other place to channel BA’s ghosts is Recoleta Cemetery. In good Latin American fashion, it’s more like a mini city, a grid pattern of streets flanked by the flamboyant tombs and mausoleums of Argentine presidents, generals, scientists and celebrities. Although rather subdued compared to many of the others, the Duarte family mausoleum is far and away the most visited. That’s because Eva Perón is buried there. Even as I browsed the memorial plaques on the façade of the mausoleum, several Evita admirers arrived with fresh flowers which they left at the front door.

Eating Out and Enjoying the Local Food Scene

Eating out in Buenos Aires is all about traditional dishes like empanadas and decadent dulce de leche desserts, oh and let’s not forget the spectacular asado barbecue which you can track down at traditional steak houses all over the city. If you’re interested in exploring the local café culture, be prepared to spend hours sipping hot coffee and sweet medialunas, the locals seem to love this way of life.

Just remember that dinner in Argentina is a whole lot later than you’re used to back home, tables tend to fill up around 9:00 PM. If you want to secure a table at world-famous joints like Don Julio, you’ll need to book well in advance, it’s well worth it. To get a taste of the broader culinary scene, wander on over to Palermo Hollywood or Villa Crespo, they offer all sorts of international cuisines to spice up your standard steak dinner, not unlike some of North America’s under-the-radar foodie destinations.

Getting Your Head Around the Blue Dollar and Exchange Rates

You can easily get a handle on the local financial scene by exchanging your foreign currency at the unofficial blue rate (its the one that’s not listed in your standard bank) rather than plumping for the official banks. In Argentina, the official currency is the Argentine peso (ARS), but the local economy runs on a whole different system that’ll take some getting used to. The official rate offered by the major banks is usually way less generous than the cash-based blue dollar rate you can find on the street.

For seasoned travelers wanting to stretch their budget and save some cash, it’s worth relying on Western Union offices to cash out their funds at the blue rate, it’s a lot more advantageous for your wallet. Keeping track of these fluctuating exchange rates is one of the most valuable travel tips for anyone looking to get the most out your trip.

Is Buenos Aires Safe and Easy to Navigate

Buenos Aires is a remarkably safe destination for international travelers, so long as you exercise a bit of common sense in crowded areas, the odd pickpocketing incident can be avoided with a bit of care. This fantastic city is divided into a whopping 48 official neighborhoods, each with its own unique vibe. To experience the city’s famous nightlife and dining scene, Palermo is your go-to, trendy bars and restaurants galore. On the other hand, if you’re after some elegance and high culture, head straight to beautiful Recoleta for stunning architecture and some of the best cultural attractions.

Alternatively, San Telmo’s historic cobblestone streets, old-world charm and fantastic Sunday flea market are must-visits, centered around the charming Plaza Dorrego. Then there’s La Boca, iconic for its brightly painted houses, the really deep roots of tango in the area and the legendary Boca Juniors stadium. If you want to avoid the crowds and find some peace, the upscale streets of Barrio Norte are a great place to wander and get lost in, much like the quieter corners you’ll discover on an Ecuador Sacha Lodge luxury tour through the Galápagos, Amazon and Andes.

Getting between these different districts is also seriously affordable thanks to the public transport network. To use the public transport options, including the simple-to-use subway called the Subte and the extensive network of local buses, you’ll need to get yourself a rechargeable SUBE card from a kiosk. Taxis are safe as houses and pretty affordable too, most city-center rides will only set you back between $3 and $10.

When you land at Ezeiza Airport, which is around 45 minutes to an hour and a half from downtown, you can grab an authorized cab or jump on one of the public buses that run every 30 minutes into the city. Just whip out your Google Maps, load up your card and you’re ready to go.

Finding Literary Magic at El Ateneo in Buenos Aires, Argentina

This fantastic bookshop is an absolute must-visit, it holds the title of being the largest in all of South America after all. Walking into this jaw-dropping former theatre, which now houses this incredible store, feels like stepping back into the past making it the perfect spot to take some snaps while hunting for that next great read.

If visual masterpieces are your thing, the nearby MALBA Museum is well worth checking out, showcasing some amazing 20th-century Latin American art. As you wander between landmarks, keep an eye out for the amazing street art that covers the local walls, an awesome expression of modern Argentine identity.

Beyond Wine - The Rise of Buenos Aires Craft Beer

If you’re looking for a top craft beer in Buenos Aires, then the Palermo nightlife district is the place to be. With local bars serving up top local brews, you can soak up the atmosphere and sample some of the best.

Now, we all know Argentina is famous for its Malbec wine, but in recent years a whole bunch of independent breweries have popped up in the capital. Its become a cracking place to unwind after a long day of sightseeing, with casual open-air spots filling up every night.

BA as a BC (Base Camp)

Having fallen head over heels for Buenos Aires, I decided to prolong my stay. Traveling to Patagonia would just have to wait while I used BA as a base camp for exploring beyond its city limits.

I devoted an entire day to Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay on the north shore of the Rio de la Plata. The ferry takes around four hours to cross the waterway. But it was time well spent for an afternoon discovering an urban area that is a perfect complement to Buenos Aires in terms of architecture and café lifestyle.

Another day I hopped a bus to San Antonio de Areco. Located on the vast pampas west of BA, the old Spanish colonial town remains a hotbed of traditional gaucho culture. First stop was the Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes, dedicated to the author who penned the gaucho literary classic “Don Segundo Sombra.”

Grabbing lunch at the Boliche de Bessonart tavern, I spotted a group of men clad in berets and leather boots with red or black scarves tied around their necks, silver belt buckles, baggy pants and knives wedged in their waistbands. Gauchos! They were kind enough to invite me to drink with them, and in my limited Spanish I discovered that one was related to the famous bard. He invited me to his estancia (ranch) for a gallop across the grasslands beside the Rio Areco. It could not have been a more perfect day.

I would say the same about the week in Buenos Aires. There was more tango, of course. Lots more tango. And a growing appreciation on my part that Argentina’s beloved artform is not just song and dance but even more about the lyrics. As one might expect, a lot of the songs are romantic, about love lost and gained. But tango lyrics are often infused with political satire, social commentary and a lust for life that seems to run through everything in Buenos Aires.

Planning the Best Day Trips Beyond the Capital

Wish to escape the frantic pace of the city for a bit? Then day trips to the serene Tigre Delta or an historic country ranch are a must. Located just about an hour from the city center, the town of Tigre serves as the gateway to an enormous delta with around 500 islands and winding waterways. Take one of the public boat tours and spend a lazy afternoon taking in the views of the river. If you’re eager to experience some traditional gaucho culture, then an estancia is the way to go, where you can ride horses and feast on homemade empanadas and the real deal grilled meats.

If you’re celebrating a special occasion like a first anniversary, then booking a few nights at a countryside boutique hotel or spending an afternoon watching a thrilling horse race at the local hippodrome is a lovely touch of romance to add to your itinerary. And if you have a bit more time to play with on your South American adventure, why not jump on a quick flight up to see Iguazu Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most jaw-dropping waterfalls in the world, or even pair your trip with a journey to Quito in the heart of the Andes.

The Andes foothills in Mendoza, Argentina.

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Mendoza’s Tasty Wine Country

My journey across Argentina also took me through Mendoza, epicenter of the nation’s celebrated wine country. Set along the Andes foothills, the western Argentina city is surrounded by more than 1,500 wineries, many of them in the Maipú and Luján de Cuyo areas on the south side of town and down scenic Highway 40 in the Valle de Uco, and it’s a natural complement to expedition cruises through South America’s wild places.

Mendoza is renowned for vino tinto – red wines like Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon made from grapes that thrive in the rich soil, dry climate and high altitude. There are also great whites, primarily Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but also the Torrontés wines that are such a favorite in Argentina.

How do you choose a bodega to visit when there’s so much choice? Award-winning wineries like Achaval Ferrer in the Uco Valley and Catena Zapata in Luján de Cuyo make every list of Mendoza’s best. But oenophiles should also check out boutique bodegas like family-run Carmelo Patti in Luján or Gimenez Riili in the Uco.

Although many of the tasting rooms are open year-round, the harvest takes place in the southern hemisphere fall: February and March. The harvest coincides with La Fiesta Nacional de Vendimia, a month long festival that blends local wines with live music, parades, a beauty contest and incredible Argentine cuisine. Several wineries offer opportunities to join the picking and even stomp grapes during the harvest season.

There’s no shortage of accommodation, from modestly priced city hotels to chic rural retreats like Cavas Wine Lodge, upscale glamping at Chozos Resort, and the Susana Balbo Winemaker’s House & Spa Suites.