Zucchini: What size to cook with?

Talk about cooking zucchini and the first question most people ask is “What size?” The real answer is: “Whatta ya got?” Tiny zucchini look great on the plate but haven’t developed their full flavor. Braise them whole to take advantage of their appearance. Huge zucchini (yeah, we know, you went on vacation) are watery and seedy, but they are really terrific stuffed. Cut them in 3-inch crosswise sections and use a melon baller to scoop out all but about 1/3 to 1/2 inch of pulp, making a cup. Medium-sized zucchini (6 or 7 inches) can be used any way you wish.

— Russ Parsons