For a better mashed potato, bake, don’t boil
- Share via
Mashed potatoes are my favorite part of the Thanksgiving spread. However, I don’t really like making mashed potatoes. It stresses me out. I never know how much butter to add, how much milk. I’m always worried about overboiling my potatoes and ending up with a water-logged mash. So, for this recipe — to avoid as much stress as possible during an already chaotic season — I decided to bake the potatoes instead of boiling them, and to ease my worry about the fat, I simply opted to add a lot.
If the amount of butter in these mashed potatoes scares you, just know that on my first recipe test, I added double the amount of butter and all of my test subjects ate them quite happily. It is also your right as the cook to not disclose how much butter you used.
I like baking the potatoes not only because it avoids the risk of overboiling, but also because it leaves you with Pure, Unadulterated Potato Flavor. Make sure to rice or mill the potatoes while they are still quite hot, and be careful not to overmix the potatoes when you add the butter and milk, as overworked potatoes can quickly become gummy and unpleasant.
Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Scrub the potatoes to remove any dirt, prick them a few times with a fork and dry them thoroughly with a clean towel. Place the potatoes directly on the middle oven rack and bake for an hour or more, until a fork can pierce through to the center of the potato with no resistance.
Once they are tender, carefully remove the potatoes to a big bowl and cut a slit in each one to allow some steam to escape. Set aside.
Put the milk, smashed garlic and thyme in a small saucepan and cook on the stove over medium heat until steaming but not quite boiling, about five to seven minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the garlic and thyme to steep in the warm milk as you prepare the potatoes.
When they are just cool enough to handle, peel the hot potatoes with a knife, removing any parts that have browned during baking. Run the hot, peeled potatoes through a food mill or potato ricer and into a big metal bowl.
Add the room temperature butter in batches, gently folding it in using a rubber spatula and being careful not to overwork the potatoes. Once all the butter is incorporated, pour the warm milk mixture through a sieve and into the potatoes. Incorporate the milk into the potatoes, again being careful not to overmix. The texture of the potatoes should be smooth and loose enough to easily dollop while still holding their shape on a plate.
Taste for salt, adding more if needed, and several cranks of freshly ground pepper. Serve immediately, or keep them warm in a double boiler by placing the metal bowl of potatoes over a pot of simmering water.
