Quick swirl: 2005 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Rosso di Montalcino

It’s such a beauty, this Rosso di Montalcino from the old and respected Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona estate, which holds some of the best vineyards in the Brunello di Montalcino appellation. A baby Brunello, 100% Sangiovese Grosso, it’s a gorgeous ruby red, laced with flavors of dark cherries, sweet spices and a light touch of oak. It’s racy and full of life, let loose on the world a year or so after the vintage while its more restrained elder brother, Brunello di Montalcino, has to wait a full 50 months. This is the wine to drink with bistecca alla Fiorentina (a char-grilled, 2-inch-thick T-bone), or a bowl of earthy pasta fagioli. It would be terrific with sausages or a mixed grill, and with heartier pasta dishes too.

-- S. Irene Virbila

Region: Tuscany

Price: About $24

Style: Soft and fresh

Food it goes with:Bistecca, mixed grill, lasagna and other hearty pasta dishes

Where you find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463, www.hitimewine.net; L.A. Wine Co. in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-9463; the Wine Country in Signal Hill, (562) 597-8303; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX; www.winex.com; and the Wine House in West Los Angeles (310) 479-3731, www.winehouse.com.