This must be Highland Park
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Let’s just kick the elephant out of the room right away. It’s hard to write a guide to Highland Park without addressing the “G” word. The neighborhood has been described as a poster child of gentrification, and for anyone who spends time there, it’s easy to see why.
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Within the Northeast neighborhood nestled between downtown L.A. and Pasadena, you’ll see the Highland Park of the past: find remnants like the stone castle that was once the home of Charles F. Lummis, a poet and journalist who famously walked from Cincinnati to Highland Park — yes, you read that correctly — to accept a job at the Los Angeles Times in the mid 1880s. (He later went on to found the Southwest Museum, L.A.’s first museum, close by.)
You’ll see the Highland Park that remains: a working-class hub where bandas practice outside for all to hear, the smell of street tacos fills the air, multigenerational families play together at the park and iconic fixtures like the 22-foot-tall Chicken Boy statue that hovers over North Figueroa like a friendly mascot.
And you’ll see the Highland Park that’s emerging: an L.A. hot spot where young people flock to sip on fancy cocktails along York Boulevard and hang out at a chic Prohibition-era bowling alley.
Somehow, all these versions exist together. These days, it’s common to see luxury companies like Le Labo, which sells candles for upward of $90, move next door to small businesses such as the beloved Mexican family-owned Delicias Bakery & Some that has been serving fresh pan dulce for nearly 35 years. The community collectively mourned when its 100-year-old historic movie theater closed last March.
As one of L.A.’s first suburbs, Highland Park began the 20th century as an artsy oasis that was dotted with charming Craftsman homes. By the 1960s, the neighborhood had transformed into an epicenter for Latino life. The evolution of Highland Park has brought all the usual tensions between longtime residents and newcomers, many of whom were priced out of areas like Silver Lake and South Pasadena.
In spite of that, Highland Park has managed to hold onto its roots and small-town charm. This is in part thanks to nonprofits like the Highland Park Heritage Trust and community members who have been working to preserve the neighborhood’s rich history and cherished cultural hubs.
“A lot of the identity is still here, things that just make it feel like home,” says Michael Nájera, 35, whose family has lived in the neighborhood for three generations. He and his wife co-founded a running club called Tofu Scramble that meets at local coffee shops on Friday mornings.
“There’s a strong sense of community here. Even with everything going on these days, it’s amazing to see people out — some of us because we can, and others at risk because they have to,” he adds, referring to the recent ICE raids. “And still, this feels like a place where it’s OK to be brown and to be outside.” It’s common to see local businesses displaying Know Your Rights cards in support of their neighbors.
Rocio Paredes, a director and photographer who attended Franklin Middle School and High School in Highland Park, adds that “Chicanoism is very engraved in our DNA here.” You can see the culture’s influence in spaces like the Centro de Arte Público and the Mechicano Art Center, both of which were home to Highland Park’s Chicano Arts Collective, an organization that helped advance the political aims of L.A.’s Chicano movement in the 1970s. And also at local restaurants. At Las Cazuelas, a family-run Salvadoran pupuseria that’s been open since 1985, Parades says, “It’s like a f— time capsule.”
From historic Craftsman homes, beautiful hills, bountiful green spaces, cuisine from various cultures, vintage shops of varied prices and a vibrant nightlife scene, there’s so much to appreciate about Highland Park.
What's included in this guide
Anyone who’s lived in a major metropolis can tell you that neighborhoods are a tricky thing. They’re eternally malleable and evoke sociological questions around how we place our homes, our neighbors and our communities within a wider tapestry. In the name of neighborly generosity, we may include gems that linger outside of technical parameters. Instead of leaning into stark definitions, we hope to celebrate all of the places that make us love where we live.
Our journalists independently visited every spot recommended in this guide. We do not accept free meals or experiences. What L.A. neighborhood should we check out next? Send ideas to guides@latimes.com.
Feel like a kid in a candy shop at Galco’s Soda Pop Stop
Looking for Cheerwine’s famous red pop, which became the world’s first bottled cherry soda when it was founded in 1917 in North Carolina? Galco’s has got it. Or how about Missouri’s family restaurant-turned-root beer classic Fitz’s, which is perfect for a root beer float? You’ll find it there too. (I can’t stop thinking about the caramel cream root beer by the brand Brownie that I tried on a recent visit.)
Inspired by his late father, who worked as a soda jerk at a local pharmacy when he was a teen, Nese added a station where you can craft their own soda using syrups with real cane sugar and carbonated water. But if you’re craving a grown-up beverage, there’s plenty of artisanal beer, wine, sake and more from around the world to choose from. And Nese, who has encyclopedic knowledge about everything there — including the nostalgic candies and retro toys — is always willing to help you make a selection.
Galco’s, which started out as a humble Italian grocery store, sticks to its roots at its deli stand at the back of the store, which sells “blockbuster” sized sandwiches — a name that was inspired by boxing legend Rocky Marciano who apparently proclaimed “This is a real blockbuster!” after tasting one. Billie Eilish, who grew up in Highland Park, has also called Galco’s one of her favorite spots in the neighborhood.
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Indulge in vegan pan dulce at the family-owned Delicias Bakery & Some
A necessary stop in the neighborhood is Delicias Bakery & Some. Owned and operated by the same Mexican family since 1991, the panadería has stood the test of time by serving up delicious coffee and traditional Mexican fare. Inspired by one of the family member’s becoming vegan, Delicias is also the first panadería in Los Angeles to offer vegan pan dulce. Just about everything can be made vegan, including its chilaquiles, tortas, burritos, flan and empanadas. In fact, Delicias vegan meats and queso fresco are made in-house, and all of its aguas frescas are naturally vegan. You can also order alternative milks for all coffee and latte drinks at no extra cost — a true luxury in this economy. Important to note is that this isn’t a fast food joint, as a bright green sign at the register reminds customers. Everything at Delicias Bakery & Some is made fresh.
Slide into one of the wooden benches at the bakery and order a concha and a cafe de olla to dip into — and be sure to grab a couple more treats for later.
Find your Zen at Ernest E. Debs Park's Peanut Lake
A must-see at the park is Peanut Lake. Also called Debs Pond, the hilltop blue-green pond is filled with turtles and fish, and is surrounded by trees, which provide ample shade and cooler temperatures.
There are multiple ways to get to Peanut Lake, but if your goal is to reach it as quickly as possible — which was my objective on a recent hot summer morning — then park your car in the main lot off Debs Park Road and veer toward the dirt path on the left hand side. It’s a short but steep hike that’s worth the temporary huffing and puffing. Your reward at the top of the hill? A serene retreat with a stunning view of downtown L.A. that feels like an escape from the bustling city.
Another nearby green space worth checking out is La Tierra de la Culebra Park, a stunning pocket-sized art park and healing space founded in 1992 that regularly hosts events.
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Munch on Villa’s Tacos' loaded mouth-watering queso tacos
With the motto “tacos estilo Los Angeles,” Villa, who is the son of Mexican immigrants, is known for his blue corn tortillas, mesquite grilled meats (chorizo, chicken and asada) and marquee queso tacos — a loaded taco with melted cheese, layers of cotija, crema and guacamole that will leave your mouth watering. Take your choice with one, a few or all of Villa’s seven salsas (mango habanero, classic hot, avocado salsa, etc.), inspired by his family recipes and wash it down with an agua fresca. I’m not a vegetarian, but my personal favorite is the Papas a La Plancha (potatoes). Other meat-free options include frijoles con nopal (black beans and cactus salad) and grilled soyrizo (with pineapple and onion). If you don’t know what to order, try their sampler trio.
Throughout the day, especially during lunchtime, there’s typically a line out the door at Villa’s Tacos, which has a Dodger blue sign with red trimming. But don’t let that deter you, it usually moves fast and the upbeat soundtrack alone will have you vibing as you wait. If you want to munch on your tacos right away, stake out a seat at one of the picnic tables out front, or enjoy them in the car like Keith Lee does. Parking in the strip mall lot can be difficult, but street parking is also available nearby.
If you’re more of a seafood person, though, head over to Villas Tacos’ third taquería about a mile away, which specializes in beer-battered fish tacos.
Bowl a strike at L.A.’s oldest functioning bowling alley
About 40 years later, Joseph “Mr. T” Teresa, an Italian immigrant, bought the space and renamed it Mr. T’s Bowl. He modernized the bowling alley with dropped ceilings, wall coverings and paint, and ultimately turned it into a notable music venue. Then in 2014, 1933 Group (the same firm that preserved La Cuevita in Highland Park and the Harlowe in West Hollywood) took it over and peeled back its layers and layers of history, bringing it back to its former glory. The billiards room, which is where live music takes place, is named Mr. T’s Room.
Walking inside of the bowling alley today feels like being transported to the 1920s — sans the strict alcohol laws. Old pinsetters serve as chandeliers. A massive, revamped mural from the 1930s stands behind eight refurbished bowling lanes. Along the stairwell, which leads to the bathrooms, are framed photos, trophies, medals and other bowling memorabilia. There are even old bowling lockers in the restrooms.
It’s best to make a reservation — there’s a $20 booking fee to hold your spot — to avoid long wait times. The chillest nights to visit are Monday or Tuesday, which are also the cheapest days to bowl at $45 per hour from 5 p.m. to midnight. Throughout the rest of the week prices depend on the day and time, and shoe rentals are $7.
While you put your bowling skills to the test, order a pizza, which comes in more than 10 flavors. Then wash it down guilt-free with one of Highland Park Bowl’s themed cocktails, which rotate twice a year.
Find one-of-a-kind thrifted gems at the Bearded Beagle
Located on North Figueroa Street (better known as North Fig to locals), you can’t miss the shop, which showcases artist Skyler Duf‘s large black and white mural of endearing, bearded beagles dancing, rollerskating and yo-yo-ing and enjoying other human-like activities.
The Bearded Beagle, which has another location in Los Feliz, has something for everyone: a healthy selection of Levi’s jeans, Coach bags, formal showstopper dresses, deadstock Baby Phat, Rocketdog platform shoes, western wear (think chaps), sports jerseys, silver and costume jewelry. On a recent visit, I bought a stunning aqua blue, bejeweled gown for less than $70, which makes me feel like a mermaid every time I wear it.
You can also sift through the shop’s modest vinyl collection. Owners Rebecca Pieper and Matthew Lacasse regularly host events at the shop including closet sales with folks like actor and writer Jordan Firstman (“English Teacher” and “Search Party”) and marketplaces.
In a lot behind the shop are two more hidden gems: A radio station called Listen Fur that specializes in avant-garde music and genres you rarely hear (think indigenous music from around the globe), and a vintage tape player repair shop called JR Market.
Delight over brother-sister businesses Tropical Juice LA and Highland Park Florist
Owned by brother-and-sister duo, Ignacio Abarca and Lucy Medina, Tropical Juice LA has been serving up freshly made juices, smoothies and ice cream for nearly 20 years. The juice shack also sells fruit bowls including its popular bionicos, which is essentially a Mexican fruit salad filled with diced apples, melon, bananas, strawberries, granola, raisins, coconut shavings and a sweet, creamy topping. Most items range between $4-$10.
Next door to the juice bar is its sister business, Highland Park Florist that is just as enchanting and kaleidoscopic. Medina bought the floral shop from a previous owner in 1991 and has been running it with her husband and sons ever since. The shop is adorned with a mural of an aqua blue truck that is surrounded by flowers and a statue of the Virgin Mary nearby. Inside, there’s rows and rows of fresh flowers and plants including roses, sunflowers, tulips, golden pothos and various native plants such as proteas, pin cushion and chamomile. The shop also carries and create several cat-friendly arrangements.
Ask Lucy or one of the other talented floral designers for tips on building your own bouquet or take your pick from the glorious pre-made arrangements.
Eat a Reuben with a twist at Jeff's Table
Co-owned by former T.V. writer Jeff Strauss, who worked on the first season of “Friends,” his eponymous deli is heavily inspired by the Jewish dishes that he grew up eating and the global flavors that he’s tasted in L.A. and in other countries over the years. Some of those unexpected fusions have manifested into one of his most popular sandwiches, “Jeff’s Special,” which is essentially a Reuben with hand-sliced pastrami on griddled, seeded rye bread and a spicy Russian-inspired dressing. Other stand outs include the Hot KimCheezy (with house-made kimichi) and Grandma’s in Florence, which is made with ham and cultured butter on focaccia bread. Jeff’s Table also sells an array of head-turning sides with unanticipated flavor profiles like the thai peanut mac salad, which features a thai green-curry aioli dressing or the wasabi tobiko potato salad, which includes wasabi and flying-fish roe.
To wash down your meal, grab one of their beverages (root beer, ginger ale, beer, etc.) or take your pick from the heavily stocked Flask liquor store. Jeff’s Table is a grab and go establishment so there’s no indoor seating, but you’re welcome to sit outside at the red tables in front of the store. It’s open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
Catch a lively puppet show at the historic Bob Baker Marionette Theater
Bob Baker founded the theater in 1963 with partner Alton Wood, created thousands of marionettes and ran the outfit for decades in a rustic cinderblock-walled space near the edge of downtown Los Angeles. Legions of pint-size Angelenos passed through, many of them now grandparents.
Now comes a new chapter. Since Baker’s death in 2014 at age 90, the troupe has moved to a splendid (and very red) space on York Avenue at the border of Highland Park and Eagle Rock.
The venue holds fewer than 100 people, and most kids sit “criss-cross applesauce” style on the carpet in front. Weekend shows (“It’s a Musical World!” is a perennial) typically begin with jaunty organ intro music by Mr. Ed Torres, followed by about an hourlong presentation that features 100 or more marionettes, which waltz madly, sing operatically, bat eyelashes and operate right at a kid’s eye level. One Saturday per month, there’s a Sabados Animados cartoon morning. At the end of the regular shows (don’t tell the kids), there’s surprise ice cream and you can stick around the stage to do a meet-and-greet with the puppeteers. Tickets start at $25 for puppet shows. Children ages 2 and under get in free. Advance reservations are required.
Visit the 19th century Lummis Home (El Alisal) that took 15 years to build
Lummis built his home by hand over a period of 15 years, with the help of a constant stream of Indigenous kids from the Isleta Pueblo in New Mexico. The floors are all concrete so that they could be easily hosed down after one of the endless parties that Lummis threw at the house (he called them “noises”). Wander around the bountiful gardens and imagine what it must have been like to spend time here before the 110 Freeway was constructed, just steps away.
And did you know this? Embedded into the window frame in the living room are negatives from photographs that Lummis took during his travels around the Southwest.
The Lummis Home is open for free, self-guided tours from 10 a.m to 3 p.m. Friday through Sunday. If you’re lucky, Chris Rodriguez, the lead curator who’s worked at the home for nearly 15 years, will be on site and can share even more details about the home and Lummis’ fascinating lore.
Get a new hairdo and shop for records at Artform Studio
Artform feels like a culmination of both of their passions. Near the entrance is a vanity setup that is equipped with hair styling tools, a vintage handheld mirror and a record player with 45s nearby.
All of the hair services — curly perms, braids, hair coloring and tapers — are done in the back of the salon, while the record shop is toward the front. Vinyl records and music posters line the red-painted wall near a set of turntables regularly used by the DJs who come in to play sets. As for the record collection, it’s modest but it’s so well curated that you are bound to find something you like. The selection spans jazz (including Jazz Is Dead records), soul, classic hip-hop, world, Latin and much more.
Another music-centered space that’s worth checking out is De La Playa Records & Leisure, which has a hyper focus on Latin and African sounds but also highlights local labels like Stones Throw Records and Discos Rolas. De La Playa sells nonalcoholic beverages and regularly hosts weekend events with DJs, market and food pop-ups.
Try street corn-filled pasta and other Mexitalian fusion dishes at Amiga Amore
Housed in a petite former denim repair shop on York Boulevard, Amiga Amore feels as warm as your abuelita or nonna’s kitchen. From its multicolored seat cushions that match the teal accent wall to its makeshift outdoor patio, maximum comfort is woven into the restaurant’s design. In the hallway, a wall is filled with handwritten love notes from customers. You’ll also spot several pig decor items — pork is heavily used in both Mexican and Italian cuisine, so it made sense for the animal to become Amiga Amore’s logo and mascot.
In a city that’s no stranger to cross-cultural dining experiences, Amiga Amore stands out with its bold takes on Mexican and Italian classics. Who would’ve thought that masa would make for a great pasta dough or that nopales would fit perfectly in a caprese salad (a.k.a Amiga Amore’s “Nopresse salad)?”
With main dishes starting at $38, Amiga Amore might be best suited for special occasions. Order a few shareable dishes like the juicy carne asada or fan-favorite elote agnolotti, which is essentially street corn-filled pasta, finger limes, cotija and house-made Tajin.
Experience the rich coffee culture of Latin America at Civil Coffee
With an open layout, artwork made by local artists and dozens of seats both inside and outside on its large outdoor patio, the laidback coffee spot is designed for lingering and hanging out a while. Their tagline, “It’s a Good Day to be Civil,” perfectly encapsulates the vibe.
Complete your order with the signature avocado toast on a slice of Bub and Grandma’s sourdough bread or mouth-watering chilaquiles made with chile colorado sauce. Civil Coffee has two additional locations in downtown L.A. and Studio City.
Shop Chicana-inspired apparel and lifestyle goods at Mi Vida
Painted by the owner’s husband, the mural features a row of cactuses, the Virgin Mary and the words “Power to the People” and “Hecho en Highland Park,” which makes it feel even more rooted in the predominantly Latino community. Established in 2008 and open since 2011 in Highland Park, Mi Vida (which translates to “my life”) infuses Chicana culture into every product including apparel, calming and grief oils, candles, incense, plants and accessories.
On most days, you can find the owner Noelle Reyes — who often rocks red lipstick, an assortment of tattoos and perfectly styled salt and pepper hair — cracking jokes and talking to every customer as if she’s known them for years. You can also expect to hear the sounds of artists like La Sonora Ponceña and El Gran Combo de Puerto Rico playing over the speakers.
Reyes, who’s worked in fashion for more than three decades, and her husband, Dominic Ochoa, design and screenprint roughly 75% of the products sold there including T-shirts and sweaters embossed with the words “Chingona” (“badass woman” in English) and “Paz y amor” (peace and love) and L.A.-inspired patches and pins.
Find local authors, manga, poetry and more at North Figueroa Bookshop
In the kids section at the indie bookstore near a watermelon rug, there’s a striking framed image of bullet-torn pages. Created by screenwriter and artist Tom Benedek, it’s part of a photo series called “Shot by the Writer— Works on Paper: 1982-2004” in which he took his unproduced screenplays to the gun range and shot them with a .45-caliber pistol. Benedek, who gifted the photo to North Figueroa Bookshop, used the project to memorialize his work, but for the owners of the bookstore, it also symbolizes the idea that literature and art are under constant assault yet endure.
Co-owners Chris Heiser (of Unnamed Press) and Tyson Cornell (of Rare Bird) also spotlight art on the outside of the bookshop. Every three to six months, they add a new mural of book covers, which are usually painted by artist Natalie Cruz. When I visited in August, the spotlight was on politician-writer Jorge Carlos Fonseca’s poetry book, “Pigs in Delirium.”
North Figueroa Bookshop regularly hosts events including book launches, knitting circles, book clubs and writer’s groups.
Devour mouth-watering pollo a la brasa and ceviche at Rosty Peruvian
Open since 2018 in the former Chez Antoine french restaurant, owner Maritza Gomez has been selling authentic fare that is reminiscent of the meals her late mother, whom she lovingly called Mama Alis, used to serve at her restaurants in Lima, Peru.
The modern restaurant feels like being inside of a loved one’s home. The walls are adorned with framed images of various scenes from Peru including a llama standing in front of Machu Picchu and a woman preparing food. Gomez’ family members helped install the large wood-burning oven, which they brought back from Peru. Her husband built the wooden tables and accents, while their four daughters helped bring the family operation to life.
If you want to go the safe route, order the juicy Pollo a la Brasa, which comes with your pick of two sides including fried yucca root, salad and Peruvian beans. But if you’re open to trying another flavor-bursting dish, dive into the aguadito de pollo (a traditional Peruvian chicken soup with rice, carrots, peas and cilantro broth), the lomo saltado or the ceviche, which is served with cancha (corn kernels) and choclo (andinian corn). The portion sizes are huge, so come here with a large appetite or a buddy so you can share plates.
Sip on cocktails and discover your new favorite song at Gold Line
Open since 2018, the vinyl-centered cocktail lounge is situated underneath Stones Throw Records’ office and is co-owned by the label’s founder, Chris Manak (a.k.a. DJ Peanut Butter Wolf), label manager Jason McGuire and restaurateur Tyler Bell. The centerpiece and crown jewel of the chic space is Manak’s wall-to-wall collection of more than 12,000 records, which are housed behind the DJ booth and long wooden bar. Bartenders and guest DJs are allowed to pick and play their favorites, but if they want to play an outside record, it must then join the Gold Line collection when they leave.
Grammy-winning artists such as jazz pianist Robert Glasper and singer Anderson .Paak — his duo NxWorries is signed to Stones Throw — have hosted parties here.
Sit at one of the many stools near the bar or head toward the back of the long room, which offers a moodier vibe with dark leather couches, wooden wall panels, funky lamps and a glowing disco ball above. Near the bathroom is a wall with black-and-white photos of music legends like Madvillian (duo composed of late rapper MF Doom and producer Madlib), James Brown, Fela Kuti, the Cure and more.
As you sip on Gold Line’s signature Goldliner cocktail (made with mezcal, Catalina Apéro, pineapple and lemon juice), Japanese Old Fashioned or my personal favorite, the guava caipirinha while you sit back and enjoy the sounds of Japanese funk, dance/electronic, ‘90s hip-hop and several other genres. And be prepared to have your Shazam app ready so you can get the name of what will likely be your new favorite song.
Escape to Guadalajara, Mexico, through cocktails, food, music and vibes at Nativo
Their royal blue dwelling is complete with an indoor restaurant space and an outdoor Astroturf patio, which is adorned with a large mural of Frida Kahlo to represent the owners’ Mexican heritage. Nativo also sells food including tacos courtesy of their pop-up vendor, Tacos Caseros El Valle. The bar offers a variety of specialty cocktails that are inspired by trips to Guadalajara — such as the lemony mezcal York Blvd and the Oaxacan Milk Punch, a milky take on Oaxacan rum — as well as a large selection of tequila and agave spirits. With happy hour all day on Thursday and from 5-7 p.m. on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays, Nativo brings a more lively party spirit to a traditional cocktail bar.
Slurp down a bowl of mapo tofu and classic Taiwanese dishes at Joy
With exposed brick walls, wooden paneling and dark wooden bench seating that’s adorned with a red traditional Hakka fabric, Joy on York radiates a warm vibe that will make you want to stay for a while and maybe order another round of sake or milk tea. The dessert menu also has some stars including the traditional shaved ice (comes with grass jelly, red bean, boba, sweet potato and taro balls) and popular hakka mochi (half peanut, half black sesame).
Joy can get busy at times, particularly during the lunch rush, but the lines typically move fast. And if you’re ordering to go, be sure to admire the large mural on the exterior that depicts a Taiwanese tea farm, which was painted by local artists Josiah Davis and Que Butler.