This Orange County coastal oasis is more than magical beaches. 17 reasons to visit right now
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For the uninitiated, Laguna Beach is Southern California at its most postcard-worthy, a stretch of the Orange County coastline filled with frothy waves, winding canyons and afternoon beachgoers. Yet it doesn’t take long to realize that it’s not just Laguna Beach’s sand that’s worth digging into.
Laguna Beach, for instance, is art.
The modern history of the beachside community often zeroes in on its artistic legacy. And for good reason. Plein air artists — that is, those dedicated to painting outdoors and capturing the beauty of a landscape or a moment — are believed to have begun descending upon the region in the late 1880s. In the early 1900s, it was plein air artists who established the Laguna Beach Art Assn., which ultimately led to the founding of the Laguna Art Museum.
And today, Laguna Beach stages two of Southern California’s most cherished art events. The Festival of the Arts, home to the summer tradition that is the Pageant of the Masters, and the Sawdust Art Festival continue to define Laguna Beach as an art-forward haven for free thinking.
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Laguna Beach is also history.
The aforementioned Laguna Art Museum is one of the oldest artistic institutions in Southern California, its current location dating to 1929. The city’s Marine Room Tavern, established in 1934, is one of the oldest bars in Orange County, the site of the second liquor license ever approved in Laguna Beach. Its Catholic church, St. Francis by the Sea, was built in 1933 and once held the mantle of the smallest cathedral in the world. And the Laguna Playhouse is said to be one of the oldest not-for-profit continuously operating theaters on the West Coast, with a history dating to the 1920s.
And yet Laguna Beach is tension.
Summer crowds, a tourism necessity for the area, also bring with them a host of nuisances for locals — traffic, trash, public drunkenness and the risk of dirtying up the city’s pristine beaches, five of which ranked among The Times’ list of the best in the state. It’s a privileged party atmosphere that no doubt once contributed to the area’s spotlight for trashy reality television.
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Yet that wasn’t the real Laguna, as Laguna Beach is a community.
Today, it’s a place one can find a magical wonderland dedicated to the joy of fairy tales, and to walk its Coast Highway — or take in its sights via one of the city’s free trolleys — is to find a host of quirky surf shops, chocolatiers, wine and snack outposts, and a bounty of galleries. And, yes, those magnificent beaches.
Find enchantment at the Museum of Make Believe
While designed to be family-friendly, the narratives tap into the approach of fairy tales of yore — that is, they can be dark and decidedly heartbreaking, despite a welcoming dragon with piercing emerald eyes that’s among the first items guests encounter. The creation of the husband-and-wife team of Amy and Geoff Mitchell, the Museum of Make Believe houses a mini quest with a light puzzle to solve, one that encourages guests to carefully read each of the five core fairy tales and look intently into its dioramas.
Each installation is filled with details — mini vintage radios, tiny artwork on the walls and cases full of scaled-down tools of spirituality. Some of the fables, such as “The Locket,” are told in multiple parts, its story of a humble sea trader and the allure and dangers of wealth spread among multiple displays and a lighthouse.
“Fairy tales are kind of like poems,” Amy Mitchell says. “Both ghost stories and fairy tales also have a moral to them. I like that idea. I like that there’s a little lesson, if you want to take it.”
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See art come alive at the Pageant of the Masters
Since then, the Pageant of the Masters has become a unique SoCal tradition, a heavily volunteer-based production dedicated to the exploration of art. Today, it’s a marvel of stagecraft and lighting, as dreadfully complex works — for instance, Bradford J. Salamon’s 2016 painting “Monday at the Crab Cooker,” pictured, with patrons caught mid-drink and mid-conversation at a casual eatery — are painstakingly re-created with good ol’ fashioned theater tricks. The illusions — a “tableaux vivant,” for those who want to call the static mixture of models, actors, costumes, makeup and backgrounds by its official name — are delightfully effective, with many an audience member renting binoculars to try and pick apart what and who is “real” and what is a backdrop in each painting that is presented.
Every summer the Pageant of the Masters chooses a new theme. For 2025, the show “Gold Coast” centers on art housed in California museums. Staged as a road trip through San Diego, Pasadena, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Sacramento and more, the production serves as a love letter to West Coast art institutions. Each painting is presented with live orchestra accompaniment, and interstitial scenes feature non-static actors expressing their excitement at touring California.
There’s a historical and educational aspect to the Pageant of the Masters, but it’s light, as the show isn’t afraid to be a little corny in its effusiveness. In turn, no matter what year you visit, expect a jovial 90 minutes designed to inspire curiosity in art.
Escape to a tiny fairy wonderland on the grounds of the Laguna Beach Library
Nestled on the southeast side of the Laguna Beach Library is the delightfully charming Laguna Beach Fairy Garden. It’s an 1,800-square-foot fantasy land of tiny sculptures, toylike contraptions and drought-tolerant plant life, all of it designed with whimsy to serve as a reminder that our surroundings are filled with wonders. Duck and crouch under tree branches and come face-to-face with a mini Ferris wheel — even creatures blessed with the gift of flight can apparently appreciate a good carnival ride — and crouch under nooks to find hidden, sleeping fairies enjoying the shade of garden life.
The garden dates to 2014 and was the idea of local artist Jessica DeStefano. Today, it’s maintained by nonprofit Friends of the Laguna Beach Library, and it’s home to more than 30 fairy houses and tiny installations. Though tucked on a strip between a sidewalk and the walls of the library, one can get lost in little winding paths, all of them begging visitors to lean in and get close to the plant life to enjoy the artwork.
The Friends of the Laguna Beach Library keep it active year-round, with seasonal themes and the “fairy mall,” where visitors can leave or receive letters from the creatures who call the grounds home. In an average month, the Fairy Garden is said to receive between 150 and 300 letters.
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Don't miss the Pirate Tower at Victoria Beach
Parking is limited to open space along Pacific Coast Highway, but Laguna Beach offers a free Summer Breeze trolley service that stops along the highway.
Dogs are allowed but must be leashed. No dogs are allowed between 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. from June 15 through Sept. 10.
Wander through the Laguna Art Museum, which holds more than 100 years of history
Its core galleries will start rotating in new exhibitions in September, including one dedicated to famed Southern California landscape artist Conrad Buff. When I visited, I lingered heavily in a hall dedicated to Marnie Weber’s “The Dollhouse,” pictured above, on display until Sept. 1.
The storybook-like sculpture is dedicated to the power of imagination and the occasional absurdity and weirdness of our dream states. From the front, the building looks lifted from an ancient fairy tale. But walk around to its back and there’s an assortment of mini dioramas cut into the structure. Here, ice palaces, treasure coves and even an autumnal forest spring to life. Each mini room feels dedicated to ghosts — of our pasts, our futures or our subconscious. For a region often associated with dreamers and storytellers, Weber’s work ricocheted between the fantastical and the natural, conveying both the importance and outlandishness of our own inventiveness.
It all felt particularly fitting for a museum that prides itself on showcasing the art of Southern California, a place where our environments are majestic and the stories we manufacture endless.
Get lost in the winding paths at Sawdust Art Festival
There are areas dedicated to glassblowing and ceramics — check the daily class schedule if you want to catch a demonstration or hone your skills — and even Wednesday afternoon wine tours that stop at a handful of booths. I took part in the last. I watched a metal wrist cuff melted and hammered into shape, learned from a photographer on how he scores his perfect sub-Saharan Africa shots and received a crash course in bringing a plein air painting to life.
I would have stayed all day if I wasn’t worried on blowing my monthly budget on art, for at Sawdust one can find everything from handmade belts, artisan jewelry, exquisite watercolors, sports photography, toe rings, mushroom sculptures, glass panels and more. Whether your tastes lean irreverent, contemporary or more traditional, somewhere at Sawdust you’ll feel at home.
This year’s festival runs June 26-Sept. 6, but don’t stress if you miss it this summer. A holiday-themed Winter Fantasy edition returns for five weekends beginning Nov. 20 with an emphasis on handmade gifts.
Enjoy rooftop vibes at the historic La Casa del Camino
The top floor of the hotel offers views north and south of the coast. My day was a bit cloudy and little windy, so I could enjoy relatively brisk waves constantly cascading into the beach while I sipped on a drink and enjoyed a shrimp cocktail. Walk-ins are easy in the afternoons, but reservations are recommended for brunch or dinner, especially on the weekends.
Looking for a bit of history as well as a room that fit a specific budget, I opted to stay at the hotel, its lobby full of wood in a vintage Spanish Revival style. My cottage-like room was priced at about $300, and while I had to strain my neck to see the ocean, I appreciated the Old World charm, large wooden dressers and generally cozy feel. Worth noting, the air conditioning is provided by portable in-room devices, but it had no problem cooling my comfortable space.
For those looking for something a little fancier, La Casa del Camino has 10 artist or branded suites, some of which reference surf culture while others nod to various artistic movements.
Relax among the coves of Treasure Island Beach
“While, like other cities, we do have large sandy areas, our coves and smaller beaches make our city special,” said Kai Bond, city of Laguna Beach marine safety captain.
A walking path that traces the outskirts of the Montage Resort takes you from the parking garage located off Wesley Drive to Christmas Beach, where you can access more coves via a ramp.
An hourly parking lot is located off Wesley Drive for $2.75 per hour with a maximum of three hours, in addition to metered parking along Pacific Coast Highway across the street from the Montage Resort.
Dogs must be on a leash at all times. Through Sept. 10, dogs are allowed before 9 a.m. and after 6 p.m.
Watch the ocean from your bathtub at Surf & Sand
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Even if you’re not staying at the sandy-toned resort — rooms during peak season can regularly approach or top $1,000 per night — its spa, its restaurant Splashes and the adjacent bar each offer a taste of grandeur. Bar seating, for instance, can be alternately relaxing and interactive, as in don’t be surprised if on windy days a brief light spritz or two of the ocean makes its way to your window stool and your plate of oysters or crab dip. Such is the closeness of the hotel to the waves. That’s perhaps why it’s long been a favorite of celebrities and dignitaries, as the hotel in the 1970s was the go-to resort for the White House Press Corps when President Nixon stayed at his nearby San Clemente home.
If you do opt for a night or two at Surf & Sand, ask, perhaps, for a room that features a bathtub with ocean views, allowing you to admire one body of water while basking in another. When it comes time to retire, its blackout drapes and soundproof interiors can fully block out the outside world. Before the remodel, says Monique Paige, a sales manger at the resort, some guests reported that the ocean’s waves crashing on the shore kept them up at night, making Surf & Sand the rare spot that allows you to sleep next to the Pacific and also tune it out if needed.
Visit St. Francis by the Sea, one of the world's tiniest cathedrals
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It has more than one unique characteristic beyond its 60-foot-by-17-foot structure, which allows for just around 48 parishioners to sit inside the church at a time (its benches are two to a row and seat about three adults). Although St. Francis by the Sea’s pastor, Bishop Brian Delvaux, says about 60 people can be crammed in there if need be.
If it’s not open, you can still peer inside and admire its decorative windows, as myself and a handful of other visitors were doing. It’s architecture, The Times has noted, reflects a combination of Christianity and theosophy, even including elements of Eastern religions. The church was built with rubble from the 1933 Long Beach earthquake, and it invokes a statuesque yet slightly Mediterranean look.
Worth spying is a zodiac, which today rests in an alcove that used to be the church’s baptistery. Beams have long been decorated with spiritual phrases by an artist who exchanged his work for lodging in the choir loft in the 1930s. Look up and see references, for instance, to Buddhism.
Idiosyncratic touches for a Catholic church, perhaps, but ones that make the space uniquely fit for an art-driven beach community. The church is open to the public for Sunday Mass at 9:30 a.m. although Delvaux says visitors may be able to catch him at various random times throughout the week.
Dive into the city's landscape-painting history at a Laguna Beach Art Assn. show
Just a short stroll from the latter is the home of Laguna Plein Air Painters Assn., which typically hosts new plein air shows monthly and continues to explore and advance the style. This summer, the gallery’s “From Dusk to Dawn” exhibition has showcased twilight scenes, illustrating how various artists deal with challenging light, color and shading.
“Our mission is to promote and preserve the plein air tradition and Laguna’s plein air legacy,” says Toni Kellenberg, president of the nonprofit. “Back in the late 1880s and early 1900s, there were no galleries here. The artists who came were outdoor painters, capturing our seascapes and canyons.”
Each October, the group hosts the the Laguna Plein Air Painting Invitational, in which the organization invites top artists from around the world to compete and showcase their work during a series of weeklong events. It’s an opportunity to not just meet an assortment of artists but watch them work outdoors at various Laguna Beach locations.
Witness marine life at Aliso Beach's tide pools
Aliso Beach is also a premier skimboarding spot with sand that slopes toward the shore break, which can be dangerous for swimmers during a swell. Considered a marine protected area, its tide pools offer an up-close opportunity to observe ocean life.
For parking, Aliso Beach West is an hourly lot at the beachside. Aliso Beach East is an hourly lot connected by a tunnel under Pacific Coast Highway on the inland side. Parking is $3 per hour.
Through Sept. 10, dogs are allowed before 9 a.m. and after 6 p.m. Dogs must be on a leash at all times.
Explore OC wilderness with a moderate hike
This 4.7-mile loop hike, best traversed counterclockwise, combines some of the park’s best scenery with seasonal wildflowers and heart-pumping inclines. Start (and end) your journey at Nix Nature Center, where you can learn more about the park’s wildlife. Follow the nature trail to Little Sycamore Canyon, keeping your eyes open for lizards on the ground and birds of prey up above. Climb up Little Sycamore to reach Serrano Ridge, which will reward you — and the mountain bikers likely to share the trail — with picturesque inland vistas. Then, descend among the trees through the Camarillo Canyon and Stagecoach South trails before ending up back at the nature center.
Park in the dirt lot at Nix Nature Center ($3 a day) off of Laguna Canyon Road.
Cool off with a date shake at the Orange Inn
Yet on my way out she stopped me with a recommendation: a date shake at Orange Inn.
The small cafe — mostly wall and window counter seating, with just four tables — was on my route to the Laguna Art Museum, so I added it to my itinerary. The charming space, full of black-and-white pictures of Laguna Beach history, was busy, with many a patron stopping at its walk-up window picking up to-go orders on their way, no doubt, to a nearby beach (the bathing suits gave them away).
I was glad I did, as the $7.25 shake was a thickly sweet thing of beauty, with just enough of itty-bitty chopped-up bits of date to make you feel like you’re indulging in something moderately healthy. It was hearty, filling me up enough for lunch, even if I rushed through it so quickly that the shake only lasted about a block of my walk.
Visit the tiki palace that is the Royal Hawaiian
Bamboo and thistle surrounds patrons. Lighting fixtures are transfixing. One, in the back of the bar area, is a hanging chandelier that looks as if it could swim away, its glowing white threads abstractly recalling an octopus. In the back, a glass tank hints at scenes of fallen seafarers. And that says nothing of the tropical drinks and food. Come for the happy hour specials ($10 appetizers), or linger and nibble on crab rangoon dips and chips.
The Royal Hawaiian dates to 1947, and today it’s a handcrafted tropical paradise, as everywhere one turns there’s new details to spot — a hidden starfish, tiki-like totems and translucent multicolored lamps that give the place a soft luminescence designed to make guests dawdle. Or maybe that’s just the mai tai.
Play — or people watch — at Main Beach
Metered parking is available along Pacific Coast Highway and in lots at 234 Broadway St., 322 Forest Ave., 243 Ocean Ave. and 225 Ocean Ave. Consider the free Summer Breeze trolley service, which offers transportation to and from offsite parking.
Leashed dogs allowed, but no dogs are allowed between 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. through Sept. 10.
Stay in a cottage at Crystal Cove State Park
Crystal Cove’s Historic District is home to 46 rustic beach cottages built in the 1930s near the Los Trancos Creek area. They are available for overnight rentals and range from $320 per night for a six-person cottage to $50 per night for dorm-style rooms with shared living spaces (discounted due to California Coastal Commission funding). The cottages require reservations, which open seven months in advance. You might get lucky with same-day cancellations if you have flexibility and a persistent spirit.
Nearby, the Beachcomber Cafe, a remodeled beachside bungalow, is a great way to experience historic California while fine dining on the beach. For more casual fare, visit the Shake Shack for shakes, burgers and fries.