Beyond the Crowded Greek Islands, Unhurried Monemvasia Offers a Softer Side of Greece

Many of the travelers I speak to now want to experience Greece beyond its most familiar islands. They still want beautiful hotels, exceptional food and the Aegean Sea, but increasingly they also want something else. Luxury is also about things that are harder to find: space, time and a genuine connection with where you are.

Monemvasia offers a rare combination of all of them.

The medieval fortified town occupies a vast rock just off the eastern coast of the Peloponnese, connected to the mainland by a causeway. Cars stop at the entrance and, inside, narrow stone lanes wind between Byzantine churches, old houses, small hotels and restaurants, with the sea appearing unexpectedly between buildings.

It is certainly spectacular, but I noticed something else. Monemvasia encourages a different pace. You walk, you pause, you eat slowly. It rewards giving it time. And the experience extends far beyond the walls of the old town.

At the end of a day on a recent trip exploring the Peloponnese, my travel companions and I arrived at a family-run taverna with a clear view of Monemvasia’s great rock as the sun lowered.

(Ema Silva)

Around 15 small dishes followed, many of them based on fresh seafood prepared simply and with care. It was generous but not at all showy. Our hosts wanted us to share their world and try as much of the local cooking as we could.

Earlier in the journey, Nafplio’s deputy mayor, Kostas Karapavlos, had spoken to me about the pressures tourism can place on local communities and the work being done to manage that impact. But something he believed had not changed was the character of the Peloponnese and its people. For him, they remained the region’s greatest asset, even more so than its food and wine. That evening in Monemvasia, I could see why.

A short drive away, Kinsterna Hotel is a great example of how contemporary hospitality can still be rooted in local culture and tradition. The restored historic estate sits among vineyards, olive groves and gardens, looking towards Monemvasia. The property’s history stretches back centuries, and this remains a working estate.

Wine is produced from its own grapes. Olives are harvested and pressed on site. Honey comes from its beehives and vegetables and herbs from its gardens. Depending on the season, guests can take part in grape and olive harvests, learn traditional bread-making, experience tastings of honey and olive oil or explore the estate on foot or bicycle.

All of this rustic activity goes hand in hand with five-star luxury. The property is a beautifully restored mansion house set on 25 acres of land and holds two MICHELIN Keys. Much of its appeal is that, rather than insulating visitors from the landscape around them, the experience gives guests greater access to it.

That idea extends beyond the hotel. After several hours trekking across the rugged landscape of Cape Maleas, we reached the remote monastery of Agia Eirini through a humble arched gate. Almost alone, we ate lunch overlooking the sea. We returned by boat rather than retracing the difficult route on foot. After a long day, it was an ideal opportunity to sit back and take it all in.

From Monemvasia, the coastline leads towards Elafonisos, reached by a short ferry crossing. Here, Simos Beach has pale sand and turquoise water, but what struck me most was how quiet it was, and how little development intruded on somewhere so beautiful.

Vibrant Santorini and energetic Mykonos have become global luxury destinations because they offer something extraordinary. But their popularity, and the pressures that have come with it, have also encouraged some travelers to look for a different experience of Greece.

Monemvasia, with its simplicity and tranquility, does not need to imitate.