Forget Rio: 5 Destinations in Brazil Where Jaguars, White Dunes And Car-Free Islands Steal The Show
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When I talk to people about Brazil, the conversation almost always begins with Rio. That’s understandable. Carnival, Christ the Redeemer and Copacabana have made it one of the world’s most recognizable destinations.
But look beyond the country’s most famous city and people are often surprised by just how different each region can be. Brazil can mean tropical wetlands, remote Atlantic islands, white dunes filled with rainwater lagoons or coastal communities where Brazil’s history is still very present. These are the five places I would recommend to travelers who want to see beyond Rio de Janeiro.
Ilha Grande
A good place to begin is Ilha Grande, especially for travelers combining Rio with a more immersive experience of nature. Although still within Rio state, this largely car-free island feels far removed from the city. Forest trails connect small coastal communities and secluded beaches, while boats provide access to lagoons and coves.
One of the things I love about Ilha Grande is what you don’t hear. With virtually no motor traffic, in many places the sound of the sea takes over completely. The water can be extraordinarily clear too. Friends of mine have been coming here for years to dive, while one of my favorite memories is watching the sunset from a sailboat.
Ilha Grande also forms part of a UNESCO World Heritage landscape encompassing protected Atlantic Forest and the historic town of Paraty.
How far are you willing to travel for an unforgettable island getaway?
Southern Bahia
Farther north, the beaches of Southern Bahia are only part of the reason to visit. Near Porto Seguro, where the Portuguese first arrived in 1500, the country’s history is reflected in its enduring Indigenous presence and the region’s legacies of colonization, slavery and Black resistance.
Cacao has also shaped Southern Bahia for generations. But here cacao isn’t only something that becomes chocolate. One of my favorites is néctar de cacau, made from the pulp around the seeds. It’s a completely different way of experiencing a fruit most visitors think they already know.
The Costa do Descobrimento contains some of the places I most often recommend. Trancoso’s brightly painted houses surround the grassy Quadrado, while discreet hotels and private villas sit unobtrusively in the landscape. Farther along the coast, Caraíva and Praia do Espelho offer their own combinations of Atlantic Forest, beaches and small coastal communities. Farther north on the Costa do Cacau, Itacaré offers a similar mix of forest and beaches.
The Pantanal and Bonito
The journey inland brings a complete change of pace. In the Pantanal, wildlife sets the itinerary. The world’s largest tropical wetland offers a distinctly South American safari experience, with jaguars, caimans and capybaras roaming its waterways and plains.
In the southern Pantanal, in Mato Grosso do Sul, the experience pairs naturally with Bonito, where clear rivers are made for snorkeling and trails lead to waterfalls and caves such as the Blue Lake Grotto. Between excursions, the state’s ranching heritage comes to the table in generous cuts of local beef.
Lençóis Maranhenses
Brazil changes character again at Lençóis Maranhenses. Marble-white dunes stretch to the horizon, with crystal-clear lagoons gathering between the ridges of sand after the rains.
If you are coming for the lagoons, timing matters. I recommend June or July, when the rains have filled the pools between the dunes but the drier season is beginning. The lagoons usually hold water through September.
Exploring by open-top four-wheel drive reveals hidden lagoons and swimming spots, or you can arrange a flight over the national park to appreciate the scale of dunes and water from above.
Fernando de Noronha
The most remote of these five destinations is Fernando de Noronha. Set far out in the Atlantic, this volcanic archipelago of 21 islands is one of Brazil’s most carefully protected environments. Environmental fees, park tickets and controlled access to some trails and natural pools help limit tourism’s impact.
With fewer visitors and carefully managed access, Noronha has a seclusion that is increasingly difficult to find. Days can be spent diving, snorkeling, hiking and taking boat trips through waters where you can find dolphins, turtles and seabirds. The restrictions can make a trip more complicated, but they are also part of the reason the archipelago remains so well preserved.
