Reporting from Mariposa, Calif. — Evacuated residents returned to Mariposa on Friday as cash registers were once again ringing up summer tourism purchases in this gateway town to Yosemite National Park.
Local merchants had waited anxiously for this moment since Tuesday, when a fast-moving wildfire caused residents to flee this rustic Sierra Nevada enclave of gift shops, restaurants and historic sites.
But even as residents returned, smoke continued to hang in the air from the devastating Detwiler fire, which has so far scorched about 74,000 acres.
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The rustic Gold Rush town of 2,000 straddles a two-mile stretch of Highway 140, about 40 west of Yosemite Valley. It is the economic and cultural heart of Mariposa County, with a hospital, museum, fairgrounds and the region’s only high school.
“Reopening Mariposa businesses is a priority,” Kristie Mitchell, a spokeswoman for the Mariposa County Sheriff’s Department, said. “And we would not be doing this if we didn’t believe it was safe to do so.”
The fire, which began on Sunday and has destroyed 50 homes, was only 15% contained on Friday, authorities said. Temperatures in the area were forecast to remain above normal, with highs topping 90 degrees.
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Plumes of smoke rises as the northern front of the Detwiler wildfire burns outside of Coulterville, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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Firefighters from Apple Valley Fire Protection District help mop up residual fire after the Detwiler wildfire burned through an area outside of Mariposa.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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The ruins of a residential neighborhood along Highway 140 lie smoldering after the Detwiler wildfire burned through the area outside of Mariposa.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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Workers at Happy Burger Place clean up the restaurant in preparation to open the next morning at 6 o’clock after evacuation orders were lifted in Mariposa.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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Fire climbs up a hill as the northern front of the Detwiler wildfire burns outside of Coulterville, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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A home destroyed in the Detwiler Fire along Hunters Valley Road near Mariposa, Calif. The blaze has now burned more than 70,000 acres and is 10% contained.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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Fire retardant is dropped on a side of a hill near Mariposa, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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Plumes of smoke rise around Lake McClure, near Mariposa, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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An ominous cloud of smoke could be seen east of Bear Valley, near Mariposa, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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Marc Silva, left, Greg Bodnar and Mike Foster, firefighters from strike team 2800a from Monterey County, mop up hot spots in a residential neighborhood on the outskirts of Mariposa, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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A home destroyed by the Detwiler fire along Hunters Valley Road near Mariposa, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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A statue sits untouched at the doorstop to a home burned in the Detwiler wildfire in Mariposa, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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A home burned down by the Detwiler fire in Mariposa, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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Helicopters attack the flames in the hills behind the Idle Wheels Senior Mobile Home in Mariposa, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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The Detwiler fire burns near a residential neighborhood in Mariposa, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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Flames rise behind a vacant house as firefighters work to halt the Detwiler fire near Mariposa, Calif.
(Noah Berger / Associated Press)
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The Detwiler wildfire burns near the outskirts of Mariposa, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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Smoke engulfs Old Highway Road, in Mariposa, Calif.
(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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Firefighters monitor flames on the side of a road July 18 near Mariposa, Calif.
(Josh Edelson / AFP/Getty Images)
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Firefighters monitor flames on the side of a road July 18 near Mariposa, Calif.
(Noah Berger / Associated Press)
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Firefighter Sam Goodspeed of the Nevada City Fire Department stares down the approaching flames of the Detwiler fire July 18 near Mariposa.
(Josh Edelson / AFP/Getty Images)
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A firefighter sprays down flames July 18 near Mariposa.
(Josh Edelson / AFP/Getty Images)
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Mike Wright sits in a lawn chair at his home July 18 as flames from the Detwiler fire approach the town of Mariposa.
(Josh Edelson / AFP/Getty Images)
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A roadside memorial stands next to an area burned by the Detwiler fire in Mariposa, Calif.
(Justin Sullivan / Getty Images)
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A burned-out car sits next to a home that was destroyed by the Detwiler Fire in Mariposa, Calif.
(Justin Sullivan / Getty Images)
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A gas line continues to burn at a home destroyed by the Detwiler fire in Mariposa, Calif.
(Justin Sullivan / Getty Images)
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A chimney stands amid the burned-out remains of a house on July 18 near Mariposa.
(Josh Edelson / AFP/Getty Images)
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Evacuees from the Detwiler fire at a Red Cross evacuation center in Oakhurst, Calif.
(JOSH EDELSON / AFP/Getty Images)
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A real estate sign is surrounded by flames as the Detwiler fire rages on near the town of Mariposa.
(Josh Edelson / AFP/Getty Images)
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The Detwiller Fire burns above Lake McClure near Bear Valley.
(Noah Berger / EPA)
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Animal control officers struggle on July 17 with a sheep while trying to evacuate the animal as the Detwiller fire burns nearby in Bear Valley.
(Noah Berger / EPA)
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An air tanker drops fire retardant while battling the Detwiller fire near Bear Valley.
(Noah Berger / EPA)
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Flames from the Detwiller fire rise over Highway 49 in Bear Valley on July 17.
(Noah Berger / EPA)
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A firefighter works to keep the Detwiller fire from spreading up a hillside near Mariposa on July 17.
(Noah Berger / EPA)
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A car burned by the Detwiller fire sits outside a leveled structure on July 17 near Mariposa.
(Noah Berger / EPA)
Among the first to open her doors for business was Heidi Dulcich, manager of Coast Hardware in the center of town.
As an employee hurriedly set up the store’s sidewalk display of lawn mowers, air conditioners and chainsaw lubricant, Dulcich expressed mixed feelings about the decision by Cal Fire and the Sheriff’s Department to lift the evacuation.
“I’m happy, of course, but the evacuation went on way, way too long,” she said. “After all, the town’s electrical power is on, and there’s no fire coming over the mountain.”
A block down the street, Gail White-Stickles, 64, was preparing to hang an “open” sign on the door of her yoga studio.
“It’s a center of love, laughter and comfort in a community that could use some right now,” she said.
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On Sunday, she made one of the first 911 calls to report the Detwiler fire after it erupted near her home on a ranch about 19 miles outside of town.
“We watched it grow into a horrible monster — then spin around and burn a side of our house,” she said, shaking her head.
A few doors down, Jim Platto, 71, was taking stock of the potential financial losses at his family-owned restaurant, which he said has been enjoying “a truly wonderful year for business.”
“We’ve been grossing upwards of $3,000 a night,” he said. “Now, we’re wondering what our business and staff can expect from insurance and the emergency declaration [issued by Gov. Jerry Brown].”
Elsewhere, townfolk and ranchers, some of whom cut down their property fences to help livestock escape when the fire came within a mile of Mariposa’s historic district, were gathering at street corners and gas stations to share survival stories.
The lifting of the evacuation order was a relief for many of the roughly 600 Mariposa County residents who took refuge at a half-dozen Red Cross shelters in the community of Oakhurst, about 30 miles to the south.
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By Friday, many of them were losing patience with conflicting messages from authorities about when they could return home.
Matthew Lundberg, 54, and his wife, Sharon, who is bedridden with Parkinson’s disease, epilepsy and memory loss, arrived at a shelter with their own pillows and a sack full of prescription medications.
“The Red Cross has been wonderful to us,” Lundberg said. “But they don’t know the little things that make life bearable for Sharon, who wants so badly to go home.”
On Wednesday, Richard Kramer, 67, was camping out with his partner Cole Johnson, 55, in a tent outside the Oakhurst Mountain Christian Center as they struggled to find more stable housing.
The air was thick and hazy with smoke from the fire that was devouring surrounding stands of dense, dry forest. Kramer, who has emphysema, said his home on Agua Fria Road had burned down.
“I’m having a hell of a time breathing,” said Kramer, who wore a bright green Hawaiian shirt — the only shirt he owns now.
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Louis Sahagún is a former Los Angeles Times staff writer who covered issues ranging from religion, culture and the environment to crime, politics and water. He was on the team of L.A. Times writers that earned the Pulitzer Prize in public service for a series on Latinos in Southern California and the team that was a finalist in 2015 for the Pulitzer Prize in breaking news. He is a former board member of CCNMA: Latino Journalists of California and author of the book “Master of the Mysteries: The Life of Manly Palmer Hall.”