Tap to enable a layout that focuses on the article.
Advertisement

An Unexpected Walk in Tiny Tunisia Through 3,000 Years of UNESCO-Recognized History

The ruins in Dougga, Tunisia
(Shaun Claridge / Courtesy Paul Rogers)
0:00 0:00

This is read by an automated voice. Please report any issues or inconsistencies here.

At first, the prospect of a transatlantic trek to Tunisia might seem perplexing: why travel 16 hours to an obscure North African country when there’s so much to see and experience so much closer to home? I was going for the annual Festival of the Sahara, and hoped to also grab some time on the pristine Mediterranean beaches that European holidaymakers have long flocked to each year. But I’ll admit that I was largely ignorant of Tunisia’s rich history, amazing archaeological sites, and diverse natural wonders until I arrived.

Travel by LA Times Studios

From quick escapes to dream adventures, we’ll share top destinations, tips, and experiences to inspire your next trip.

Wedged between the much larger Algeria and Libya, what is today Tunisia was originally inhabited by Berber tribes, before Phoenicians established the city of Carthage, capital of the Ancient Carthage civilization, in the 9th century. In turn, Carthage was conquered by the Romans in 146 BC. All these cultures left archaeological footprints across Tunisia.

This is why a nation of just 12 million people and 63,000 square miles – that’s smaller than Florida – boasts nine UNESCO World Heritage Sites, outnumbering those in high-profile tourism hotspots like Thailand and Egypt. Collectively, these sites bear testament to a cultural and natural heritage that spans everything from evocative ancient ruins to picturesque oases and national parks. And with Tunisia’s UNESCO sites all being in the northeastern portion of a relatively compact country, all nine can easily be experienced on a single trip.

Advertisement

TUNISIA’S UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES

Amphitheatre of El Jem

The El Jem amphitheater in Tunisia
(Paul Rogers)

Walking through the subterranean tunnel where Roman gladiators once awaited their fate in Tunisia’s Amphitheatre of El Jem was a chilling experience that has stayed with me. Unique in Africa and amazingly intact, the soaring 3rd-century structure 125 miles south of Tunis could host 35,000 spectators for gladiatorial contests, executions, and animal slayings. Beneath are gladiator training areas and quarters, with their barracks, baths, and cemetery nearby around the modern-day city of El Djem.

Djerba

Djerba is North Africa’s largest island and Tunisia’s newest World Heritage Site, listed in 2023 for its specific low-density settlement pattern developed around the 9th century to accommodate water scarcity. Its historical sites span cultures and eras, including the Ottoman El Kebir castle and the Roman Meninx Ruins. Djerba’s El Ghriba Synagogue, one of the world’s oldest such institutions, reopened in February 2026 after a major restoration. For longer stays, an array of sparkling white hotels, some with all-inclusive options, grace Djerba’s balmy coastline.

Advertisement

Archeological Site of Carthage

Carthage archaeological site
(Shaun Claridge / Courtesy Paul Rogers)

Founded in the 9th century BC and conveniently situated for today’s tourists in what is now a suburb of Tunis, Carthage was a pillar of the ancient world, destroyed by the invading Romans then rebuilt under Julius Caesar. Wandering its breezy setting, lapped by Mediterranean inlets on two sides, I could see why it was fought over as a gateway between Europe and Africa. Punic, Roman, and Byzantine ruins include the Antonine Baths, the largest such facility outside of Rome itself; a Roman theater and amphitheater; and the Tophet of Carthage burial site.

Ichkeul National Park

Twenty years ago, Ichkeul National Park was endangered by increasing salinity of its eponymous lake and surrounding wetlands. But today it is once again thriving as a vibrant pit-stop for countless migrating birds, including flamingos and storks. A day trip from Tunis can feature a boat tour, world-class bird watching, and gentle hiking beneath big skies. A springtime visit is recommended, as summers are searing and winter weather can turn the trails to mud. Most wintering birds depart Ichkeul in March or April, replaced by summer residents like flamingos.

Medina of Tunis

The medina of Tunis.
(Phil Dennis / Courtesy Paul Rogers)

The Medina of Tunis is a historic, maze-like warren rich in architectural heritage where I was actually happy to get lost! Although covering just 0.27 square miles, it includes some 700 monuments including palaces, madrasas, and mosques spanning many centuries. The ancient calm of the 8th-century Al-Zaytuna Mosque, Tunisia’s largest, contrasts with spirited haggling over handicrafts in the Medina’s souks (where I snagged an 8-foot Tunisian-flag pennant) and cozy, authentic dining in local restaurants, many of them in converted traditional homes.

Kairouan

Kairouan is the fourth holiest city in Islam (after Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem) and Tunisia’s fourth most touristed site (behind Carthage, El Jem, and Le Bardo, home of Bardo National Museum). Tunisia’s holiest city features dozens of mosques including the spectacular Great Mosque of Sidi-Uqba, dating to 670 AD. Kairouan offers a fascinating foil to Tunisia’s myriad Roman sites and coastal attractions but being in Tunisia’s hot, arid interior means that March-May and September-November are prime times to visit.

Advertisement

Medina of Sousse

Medina of Sousse
(Phil Dennis / Courtesy Paul Rogers)

Built at the dawn of Islamic civilization, the Medina of Sousse reveals an array of historical, architectural, and cultural attractions in just a few hours on foot. Modern Sousse is a year-round tourist resort, its seaside location tempering harsh Sahel summers. Accordingly, the narrow alleyways of its medina (walled old city) are typically lively, especially around the famed fortress and Great Mosque, the latter dating back to 851 AD. Early mornings and late afternoons are less crowded, and our early start also allowed for a visit to nearby El Jem (see above).

Dougga

A panorama of Douga
(Shaun Claridge / Courtesy Paul Rogers)

Ancient Rome’s legacy still looms surprisingly large across a swathe of Tunisia, which at its closest point is just 45 miles across the Mediterranean from modern-day Italy. Dougga is a Roman town replete with temples, theater, and roads amidst rolling hills of pastures and olive groves. Its remote location has helped maintain its status as the best-preserved Roman settlement in North Africa. Dougga is around 90 minutes by road from Tunis, which offers multiple local and international car rental agencies, with guided group tours and excursions also available.

Kerkouane

Kerkouane is the only surviving example of a Phoenicio-Punic town. Abandoned in 250 BC as Rome’s legions approached, it was not razed and rebuilt as in Carthage and elsewhere. Less than a two-hour drive or louage (shared minibus/van) ride from Tunis or around four hours by bus, its well-preserved ruins includeing a sacrificial altar and hillside necropolis, and are complimented by Kerkouane National Museum, a bustling market, and the nearby pristine beaches and tourist towns of Cape Bon peninsula.

Getting There

Most international flights land at Tunis-Carthage International Airport just minutes from Tunisia’s capital, Tunis, a coastal city of jumbled historic neighborhoods, flat-roofed white villas, and gray industrial districts.

Advertisement

There are no direct flights from the US, so you’ll layover in a European or Middle Eastern hub. We flew via Frankfurt on Lufthansa, which also routes through Munich. Other common layovers include Paris (Air France), Istanbul (Turkish Airlines), and Rome (ITA). American passport holders do not need a visa to visit Tunisia for stays of up to 90 days.

ribat of sousse
(Phil Dennis / Courtesy Paul Rogers)

Travel by LA Times Studios

From quick escapes to dream adventures, we’ll share top destinations, tips, and experiences to inspire your next trip.

Advertisement
Advertisement