Tap to enable a layout that focuses on the article.
Advertisement

From No-Menu Dining Rooms to Three-Michelin-Star Kitchens, These Ten Global Hotels Cook by a Different Set of Rules

La Residence dinner table.
(Courtesy of The Royal Portfolio)
0:00 0:00

This is read by an automated voice. Please report any issues or inconsistencies here.

  • Ten hotels across four continents share one instinct: let the surrounding land dictate the menu instead of building it from ambition or a template.
  • The proof is in the specifics — a 140-plant salad grown steps from the dining room in Italy, an in-house forager supplying a Hokkaido ryokan, a Home Farm that feeds two restaurants in Hampshire.
  • Some properties push the idea further than a menu: Ett Hem in Stockholm has no set hours or printed menu at all, while Blackberry Farm runs four kitchens off one shared garden.

Most hotels have a restaurant. Far fewer have one worth traveling for — a kitchen that could (and sometimes does) draw a reservation even without a room upstairs. The ten properties ahead fall into the latter category, from a Stockholm townhouse with no printed menu to a three-Michelin-star dining room on the edge of a San Diego canyon. Each made our list because the food at these hotels is the point, not the amenity.

Travel by LA Times Studios

From quick escapes to dream adventures, we’ll share top destinations, tips, and experiences to inspire your next trip.

La Residence

Franschhoek, South Africa

Dining room with the table set and chair around. Chandelier and wine bottles surrounding.
(Courtesy of The Royal Portfolio)
Advertisement

Thirty acres of the Franschhoek Valley carry Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz vines, olive groves, and plum orchards, all of it feeding either the kitchen or the two wines bottled under La Residence’s own label. Liz Biden opened the hotel in January 2008, filling the Great Hall dining room with chandeliers — not a standard go-to for most wine-country hotels around the world.

The estate’s red, an 80/20 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz called Nicole Alexandra, first came off the property in 2011, alongside a Shiraz rosé named Rosemary Jane, both named for members of the Biden family. Sommelier Wayve Kolevsohn pours them alongside a rotating South African list at the Chef’s Table, a six-course tasting menu that changes weekly with whatever the valley’s farms and the estate’s own orchards send to the kitchen.

For a change of scenery, the Franschhoek Wine Tram traces a fixed loop past the valley’s Cape Dutch estates, though the hotel itself offers a unique option for those wanting to say put. La Residence keeps its own underground cellar open for a five-course dinner among the barrels — an experience it simply calls the Cellar Door.

Advertisement

Ett Hem

Stockholm, Sweden

Kitchen table, vegetables and other ingredients. Cook making a dish.
(Courtesy of Ett Hem)

Ett Hem has no reception desk; it’s just a house. The architect F. Dahlgren built it in 1910 for Herman and Anna Palmgren in Stockholm’s Lärkstaden district, and Anna’s fondness for Carl Larsson’s paintings gave Jeanette Mix the hotel’s name decades later, borrowed directly from Larsson’s 1899 watercolor collection Ett Hem (A Home).

This boutique hotel takes an unconventional stance on fine dining. The kitchen has no set hours and no printed menu. Guests are welcome to sit at the table while the chefs work, eating whatever the day’s ingredients turned into, plated in the conservatory for a candlelit dinner or carried out to the courtyard for breakfast. Anyone hungry between meals can open the pantry themselves and cut a slice of whatever’s cooling on the counter. In the evening, brass cabinets in the lounges are stocked for guests to pour their own nightcap — no bartender in sight, the closest thing Ett Hem has to a bar.

Zaborin

Niseko, Hokkaido, Japan

One of the handful of modern Japanese hotels making a name recently, Zaborin ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) takes its name from a Zen term “sit and forget,” paired with the character for woods. Architect Makoto Nakayama and creative director Shouya Grigg completed the 15-villa property in 2015 in Niseko, giving each villa its own volcanic hot spring bath fed by a natural flow, no heating required.

Kita kaiseki is the tradaitional dinner here, with chef Yoshihiro Seno’s northern take on the formal Kyoto tradition, with Hokkaido’s farms and mountains supplying the ingredients for that week’s menu. Seno, a Hokkaido native, treats his own venison and works with an in-house forager, and the meal is served privately, included in the nightly rate.

Guests staying four nights or longer get one dinner swapped for robatayaki — charcoal-grilled courses served in a private room built around an irori hearth.

Advertisement

Grand Hotel a Villa Fertrinelli

Gargnano, Italy

Balcony sitting area with tables and chairs. Lamps and greenery.
(Courtesy of Grand Hotel a Villa Fertrinelli)

One salad on the current tasting menu uses 140 different plants, pulled from the greenhouse and garden where chef Stefano Baiocco, who holds two Michelin stars, spends nearly as much time as he does in the kitchen. The ingredients grow on the same lakeside grounds where the Feltrinelli brothers built this villa between 1892 and 1899, lining it with the wood paneling that had made their fortune in the first place.

Grand Hotel a Villa Fertrinelli went through many eras, from hosting Mussollini to being abandoned for a few years, and was ultimately reopened in 2001 with twenty rooms. Breakfast is its own small ritual, with pastries arriving from the butler’s pantry to lakeside café tables alongside coffee poured however a guest likes it. For lunch, you usually get the local fresh lake fish, a risotto that changes with the season, and a version of fish roe wrapped in cucumber that’s become one of the menu’s regular staples.

Finally, dinner comes as a single surprise tasting menu dubbed “100% Baiocco.” Eight courses with no à la carte option are served either in the villa’s formal dining room, at the piano room’s corner banquette, or out on the lakeside pergola.

Blackberry Farm

Great Smoky Mountains, Tennessee, USA

This year marks 50 years since Sandy and Kreis Beall first bought Blackberry Farm, a 4,200-acre property in the Smoky Mountain foothills, moving in with their four-month-old son Sam, who later ran it as proprietor until his death in 2016. The trademarked Foothills Cuisine approach that the resort still cooks under traces back to that family’s original instinct: let the surrounding hills and farm decide what’s on the plate.

That now philosophy now plays out across four kitchens, each with its own executive chef — Josh Feathers at the Main House, Cassidee Dabney at The Barn, Trevor Iaconis at The Dogwood, and Sean Miller at Bramble Hall, all pulling from a garden a short walk from where they’re cooking. The farm also has its own creamery, where cheesemaker Adam Spannaus makes five sheep’s-milk cheeses, including Singing Brook, an unpasteurized pecorino that placed third in its category at the American Cheese Society’s 2009 conference.

Advertisement

Heckfield Place

Hampshire, United Kingdom

Pink hotel entrance with flowers planted and statue in the middle.
(Courtesy of Heckfield Place)

Heckfield Place’s working farm includes 38 Guernsey cows, roughly 94 sheep across three breeds, 35 British Saddleback pigs, and 800 free-range hens, and feeds both of the estate’s restaurants through seven glasshouses and a 500-tree orchard. The entire livestock lives on Home Farm, which turned fully biodynamic in 2020. The house itself dates to 1763, built for a young widow named Jane Hawley, though the farm has done more of a defining feature of the place since the current hotel opened in 2018.

Marle, the tasting-menu restaurant, holds a Michelin Green Star for cooking shaped almost entirely by what Home Farm produces that week. Skye Gyngell set the kitchen’s original direction, and culinary director Eleanor Henson became head chef in 2022, now running it day to day.

A second restaurant, Hearth, cooks everything over open fire in a separate wing of the house, drawing on the same farm products, according to one 1850 account in The Spectator, the same breed of pig that’s been raised on this land for well over a century.

Hotel B

Lima, Peru

Dinner table at a restaurant with 8 people dining and the waiter standing on top of the table.
(Courtesy of Hotel B)

Every afternoon between four and seven, Hotel B pauses for lonche, a Peruvian take on afternoon tea that traces back to 19th-century British custom — Peruvian hot chocolate, local pastries, and fresh seasonal fruit, still closely associated with Lima’s upper class. French architect Claude Sahut built the Belle Époque mansion in 1914 for the Garcia Bedoya family, with imported Italian marble and exotic woods under tall, sky-lit ceilings.

Advertisement

The hotel opened in April 2013 in the Barranco district, and its bar, run by Axel Romero, works mostly with Peruvian ingredients: a classic Pisco Sour alongside inventions like the Zombie Amazónico, each poured into glassware made specifically for the property. Dinner moves upstairs to the open-air rooftop restaurant, contemporary Peruvian cooking with a clear view for watching the sun go down over Barranco.

Capella Ubud

Bali, Indonesia

Yes, Bali can also be a fine-dining destination, and Capella Ubud’s Api Jiwa is making that case one course at a time. The restaurant, whose name translates to “fire to the soul,” relaunched recently as a farm-to-flame omakase under chef Arvie Delvo. It serves Lombok oysters and charcoal-grilled unagi nigiri to start, a re-imagined version of babi guling shaped into buns partway through, then grilled proteins ranging from Sumatran river prawns to Australian tenderloin, finishing on a miso-forward dessert with granita and sorbet.

The resort around it is built on a fictional premise: that 19th-century Dutch explorers, shipwrecked and stranded, salvaged enough from the wreck to build a camp that impressed the local Rajah. Bill Bensley designed the resulting 22 tents in 2018 without cutting down a single tree on the property’s nine acres of rainforest and rice paddy, each tent named for a character in that invented backstory, the Explorer, the Cartographer, the Puppet Master.

Fairmont Grand Del Mar

San Diego, California, USA

Pink hotel entrance with flowers planted and statue in the middle.
(Courtesy of The Grand Del Mar)

Addison by William Bradley, the tasting-menu restaurant at Grand Del Mar, is named for Addison Mizner, the architect whose Mediterranean Revival mansions defined 1920s Palm Beach, though Mizner himself never touched San Diego. When the resort opened in 2007 on the edge of the Los Peñasquitos Canyon Preserve, it borrowed his style wholesale: Italian marble, Venetian plaster, Portuguese tile, spread across 249 rooms built to look a century older than they are.

Bradley has run Addison’s kitchen since it opened in 2006, a year ahead of the hotel itself, and has made it the first restaurant in Southern California to hold three Michelin stars. The tasting menu applies French technique through California ingredients — in a dining room with a vaulted, wood-beamed ceiling and a fireplace that catches the eye.

Advertisement

The wine list holds 3,500 selections and has carried Wine Spectator’s Grand Award since 2009. For something less formal, Amaya offers a fresh take on California food on a terrace overlooking the canyon, and Cent’anni Café handles espresso for anyone who’d rather skip a full seated meal.

The Hotel D’Angleterre

Copenhagen, Denmark

Hotel bar with shelves of different bottles. Two seats at the bar stand. The room is lit with lights.
(Courtesy of Balthazar, d’Angleterre)

Hotel d’Angleterre was originally opened on Kongens Nytorv as a restaurant in 1755 by Jean Marchal, a French servant, and Maria Coppy, daughter of the royal chef — a partnership the flagship restaurant is still named for today. Marchal, the Michelin-starred dining room, now works under chef Alexander Baert, serving dishes like gougères with comté and truffle, Danish turbot in a champagne and caviar sauce, and pigeon with foie gras.

Next to it, Balthazar operates as Denmark’s first dedicated champagne bar, pouring from a list of nearly 200 labels alongside caviar, lobster sliders, and oysters, with a DJ most evenings. Breakfast in Marchal is a full buffet: pastries, smoked fish, eggs made to order, fresh honeycomb, and a glass of champagne if the morning calls for it. The building itself has burned down and been rebuilt more than once since 1755, most recently finishing a two-year restoration in 2013.

Travel by LA Times Studios

From quick escapes to dream adventures, we’ll share top destinations, tips, and experiences to inspire your next trip.

Advertisement
Advertisement