Trading the Typical Paris Tourist Hustle for the Quiet Luxury of the Left Bank and a Proper Hotel Balcony
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There are plenty of beautiful hotels in Paris, but location can completely change the way you experience the city. On a recent trip, I stayed at Mandarin Oriental Lutetia in Saint-Germain-des-Prés in Paris’ Left Bank. I wanted a slower kind of Paris trip - days filled with long walks, time to linger and explore and the freedom to wander without much of a plan. From Lutetia, that was exactly how my days unfolded. Being based on the Left Bank, I barely needed a plan once I walked out the door.
Le Bon Marché is directly across the street, the Luxembourg Gardens and Seine are an easy walk (and a beautiful morning run!) and the surrounding streets are full of cafes, restaurants and local shops. I spent a lot of my time in Paris walking, and this was one of those hotels where I could leave for the morning, meander through the neighborhood and end up seeing half the city before realizing how far I’d gone.
Lutetia has been part of the neighborhood since 1910 and is the only Palace designated hotel on Paris’ Left Bank. After a major four-year restoration, it reopened in 2018, and in 2025 became part of Mandarin Oriental.
A personal travel story about slowing down and embracing the magic of Paris. Discover the joy of Parisian cafés, rainy-day strolls, and finding beauty in every moment.
Despite the hotel’s history, my Junior Suite with Balcony had a more contemporary and modern look than I expected. Dark navy interiors and a beautiful marble bathroom gave it plenty of character without making it stuffy.
The balcony was easily my favorite part.
It was large enough to actually use rather than being one of those tiny Paris balconies you step onto for thirty seconds and take a photo. I had coffee outside in the morning, people-watched above the Saint Germain below, and came back out again in the evening when it was cooler. If you’re going to Paris specifically dreaming about a room with a balcony, it’s worth booking one you can (and will) actually spend time on!
I also toured the Eiffel View Rooftop Penthouse on the hotel’s highest floor. The interiors are incredibly spacious, with a separate living room, dining area and kitchen, but the outdoor space is what really got me. The private rooftop terrace is nearly 800 square feet, with wide open views across Paris and the Eiffel Tower. It’s huge(!), especially for a hotel in the middle of Paris, and easily the standout of the suite.
Breakfast and Brasserie Lutetia
Breakfast at Lutetia is not something I’d skip to run out for a croissant somewhere else.
There is a full buffet along with an à la carte menu, and it became one a welcome slow part of my mornings before heading out for the day. I felt right at home with the fresh fruit, coconut chia pudding and cappuccino, alongside a huge assortment of breakfast options.
Brasserie Lutetia is also worth knowing about even if you’re not staying at the hotel. The brasserie has been part of the property since it opened and still feels connected to the neighborhood rather than tucked away as a hotel restaurant. Many locals love to join for an after work drink or special dinner, which is always really nice to see when traveling.
A personal travel story about slowing down and embracing the magic of Paris. Discover the joy of Parisian cafés, rainy-day strolls, and finding beauty in every moment.
The Left Bank is the Real Selling Point
As beautiful as the hotel is, I think the strongest reason to stay at Lutetia Mandarin is Saint Germain itself.
Paris has no shortage of grand hotels, especially around the Right Bank, but staying on the Left Bank gives you a different home base. I could walk across the street to Le Bon Marché, head toward the Luxembourg Gardens, meander down toward the Seine or stop at a cafe without needing to get into a car or take the transit.
It also made coming back to the hotel in the middle of the day easy. Instead of treating the hotel as somewhere I left in the morning and returned to at night, I used it throughout the day. I’d pop back in to drop off shopping bags, change out of whatever shoes I’d convinced myself were comfortable that morning, cool down from the brutal summer heat wave in the AC and then head right back out again. It was a warm summer in Paris, so those quick resets were pretty invaluable.
The hotel also has a beautiful spa and indoor pool as well, which unfortunately I didn’t have time to enjoy during my stay; but I’ve definitely noted it for a future trip.
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One unexpected detail I learned while touring the property is that Lutetia has a separate entrance for weddings and other private events. Guests can arrive without passing through the main lobby, which makes the private spaces feel surprisingly removed from the rest of the hotel. It’s a great feature for private events, and also part of what makes this large hotel feel more discreet than you’d expect.
For a first trip to Paris, there are certainly more famous addresses. But if you already know you want to spend your time walking Saint-Germain, shopping at Le Bon Marché, sitting at cafes and generally being out and about in the city, Lutetia makes an incredibly convenient home base.
And yes, I’d absolutely book that balcony again.
